Here I Was Obliged To Pay Four Livres A Meal For
Every Person In My Family, And Two Livres At Night For Every Bed,
Though All In The Same Room:
One would imagine that the further
we advance to the southward the living is the dearer, though in
fact every article of housekeeping is cheaper in Languedoc than
many other provinces of France.
This imposition is owing to the
concourse of English who come hither, and, like simple birds of
passage, allow themselves to be plucked by the people of the
country, who know their weak side, and make their attacks
accordingly. They affect to believe, that all the travellers of
our country are grand seigneurs, immensely rich and incredibly
generous; and we are silly enough to encourage this opinion, by
submitting quietly to the most ridiculous extortion, as well as
by committing acts of the most absurd extravagance. This folly of
the English, together with a concourse of people from different
quarters, who come hither for the re-establishment of their
health, has rendered Montpellier one of the dearest places in the
South of France. The city, which is but small, stands upon a
rising ground fronting the Mediterranean, which is about three
leagues to the southward: on the other side is an agreeable
plain, extending about the same distance towards the mountains of
the Cevennes. The town is reckoned well built, and what the
French call bien percee; yet the streets are in general narrow,
and the houses dark. The air is counted salutary in catarrhous
consumptions, from its dryness and elasticity: but too sharp in
cases of pulmonary imposthumes.
It was at Montpellier that we saw for the first time any signs of
that gaiety and mirth for which the people of this country are
celebrated. In all other places through which we passed since our
departure from Lyons, we saw nothing but marks of poverty and
chagrin. We entered Montpellier on a Sunday, when the people were
all dressed in their best apparel. The streets were crowded; and
a great number of the better sort of both sexes sat upon stone
seats at their doors, conversing with great mirth and
familiarity. These conversations lasted the greatest part of the
night; and many of them were improved with musick both vocal and
instrumental: next day we were visited by the English residing in
the place, who always pay this mark of respect to new comers.
They consist of four or five families, among whom I could pass
the winter very agreeably, if the state of my health and other
reasons did not call me away.
Mr. L - had arrived two days before me, troubled with the same
asthmatic disorder, under which I have laboured so long. He told
me he had been in quest of me ever since he left England. Upon
comparing notes, I found he had stopped at the door of a country
inn in Picardy, and drank a glass of wine and water, while I was
at dinner up stairs; nay, he had even spoke to my servant, and
asked who was his master, and the man, not knowing him, replied,
he was a gentleman from Chelsea. He had walked by the door of the
house where I lodged at Paris, twenty times, while I was in that
city; and the very day before he arrived at Montpellier, he had
passed our coach on the road.
The garrison of this city consists of two battalions, one of
which is the Irish regiment of Berwick, commanded by lieutenant
colonel Tents, a gentleman with whom we contracted an
acquaintance at Boulogne. He treats us with great politeness, and
indeed does every thing in his power to make the place agreeable
to us. The duke of Fitz-James, the governor, is expected here in
a little time. We have already a tolerable concert twice a week;
there will be a comedy in the winter; and the states of Provence
assemble in January, so that Montpellier will be extremely gay
and brilliant. These very circumstances would determine me to
leave it. I have not health to enjoy these pleasures: I cannot
bear a croud of company such as pours in upon us unexpectedly at
all hours; and I foresee, that in staying at Montpellier, I
should be led into an expence, which I can ill afford. I have
therefore forwarded the letter I received from general P - n, to
Mr. B - d, our consul at Nice, signifying my intention of going
thither, and explaining the kind of accommodation I would choose
to have at that place.
The day after our arrival, I procured tolerable lodgings in the
High Street, for which I pay fifty sols, something more than two
shillings per day; and I am furnished with two meals a day by a
traiteur for ten livres: but he finds neither the wine nor the
dessert; and indeed we are but indifferently served. Those
families who reside here find their account in keeping house.
Every traveller who comes to this, or any other, town in France
with a design to stay longer than a day or two, ought to write
beforehand to his correspondent to procure furnished lodgings, to
which he may be driven immediately, without being under the
necessity of lying in an execrable inn; for all the inns of this
country are execrable.
My baggage is not yet arrived by the canal of Languedoc; but that
gives me no disturbance, as it is consigned to the care of Mr.
Ray, an English merchant and banker of this place; a gentleman of
great probity and worth, from whom I have received repeated marks
of uncommon friendship and hospitality.
The next time you hear of me will be from Nice: mean-while, I
remain always, - Dear Sir, Your affectionate humble servant.
LETTER XI
MONTPELLIER, November 12.
DEAR DOCTOR - I flattered myself with the hope of much amusement
during my short stay at Montpellier. - The University, the
Botanical Garden, the State of
Physic in this part of the world, and the information I received
of a curious collection of manuscripts, among which I hoped to
find something for our friend Dr. H - r; all these particulars
promised a rich fund of entertainment, which, however, I cannot
enjoy.
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