Through The Whole South Of France,
Except In Large Cities, The Inns Are Cold, Damp, Dark, Dismal,
And Dirty; The Landlords Equally Disobliging And Rapacious; The
Servants Aukward, Sluttish, And Slothful; And The Postilions
Lazy, Lounging, Greedy, And Impertinent.
If you chide them for
lingering, they will continue to delay you the longer:
If you
chastise them with sword, cane, cudgel, or horse-whip, they will
either disappear entirely, and leave you without resource; or
they will find means to take vengeance by overturning your
carriage. The best method I know of travelling with any degree of
comfort, is to allow yourself to become the dupe of imposition,
and stimulate their endeavours by extraordinary gratifications. I
laid down a resolution (and kept it) to give no more than four
and twenty sols per post between the two postilions; but I am now
persuaded that for three-pence a post more, I should have been
much better served, and should have performed the journey with
much greater pleasure. We met with no adventures upon the road
worth reciting. The first day we were retarded about two hours by
the dutchess D - lle, and her son the duc de R - f - t, who by
virtue of an order from the minister, had anticipated all the
horses at the post. They accosted my servant, and asked if his
master was a lord? He thought proper to answer in the
affirmative, upon which the duke declared that he must certainly
be of French extraction, inasmuch as he observed the lilies of
France in his arms on the coach.
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