We Embarked In The Morning Before
Day, With A Gale That Made Us Run The Lee-Gunwale In The Water;
But, when we pretended to turn the point of Porto Venere, we
found the wind full in our teeth, and
Were obliged to return to
our quarters, where we had been shamefully fleeced by the
landlord, who, nevertheless, was not such an exorbitant knave as
the post-master, whose house I would advise all travellers to
avoid. Here, indeed, I had occasion to see an instance of
prudence and oeconomy, which I should certainly imitate, if ever
I had occasion to travel this way by
myself. An Englishman, who had hired a felucca from Antibes to
Leghorn, was put in here by stress of weather; but being aware of
the extortion of innkeepers, and the bad accommodation in their
houses, he slept on board on his own mattrasses; and there
likewise he had all his conveniencies for eating. He sent his
servant on shore occasionally to buy provision, and see it cooked
according to his direction in some public house; and had his
meals regularly in the felucca. This evening he came ashore to
stretch his legs, and took a solitary walk on the beach, avoiding
us with great care, although he knew we were English; his valet
who was abundantly communicative, told my servant, that in coming
through France, his master had travelled three days in company
with two other English gentlemen, whom he met upon the road, and
in all that time he never spoke a word to either, yet in other
respects, he was a good man, mild, charitable, and humane.
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