As It
Began To Rain, I Pulled Up The Glass In His Face, And He Withdrew
Again To The Door, Seemingly Ruffled At My Deportment.
In a
little time the horses arrived, and three of them were
immediately put to a very handsome post-chaise, into which he
stepped, and set out, accompanied by a man in a rich livery on
horseback.
Astonished at this circumstance, I asked the hostler
who he was, and he replied, that he was a man of fashion (un
seigneur) who lived in the neighbourhood of Auxerre. I was much
mortified to find that I had treated a nobleman so scurvily, and
scolded my own people for not having more penetration than
myself. I dare say he did not fail to descant upon the brutal
behaviour of the Englishman; and that my mistake served with him
to confirm the national reproach of bluntness, and ill breeding,
under which we lie in this country. The truth is, I was that day
more than usually peevish, from the bad weather, as well as from
the dread of a fit of the asthma, with which I was threatened:
and I dare say my appearance seemed as uncouth to him, as his
travelling dress appeared to me. I had a grey mourning frock
under a wide great coat, a bob wig without powder, a very large
laced hat, and a meagre, wrinkled, discontented countenance.
The fourth night of our journey we lay at Macon, and the next day
passed through the Lyonnois, which is a fine country, full of
towns, villages, and gentlemen's houses. In passing through the
Maconnois, we saw a great many fields of Indian corn, which grows
to the height of six or seven feet: it is made into flour for the
use of the common people, and goes by the name of Turkey wheat.
Here likewise, as well as in Dauphine, they raise a vast quantity
of very large pompions, with the contents of which they thicken
their soup and ragouts.
As we travelled only while the sun was up, on account of my ill
health, and the post horses in France are in bad order, we seldom
exceeded twenty leagues a day.
I was directed to a lodging-house at Lyons, which being full they
shewed us to a tavern, where I was led up three pair of stairs,
to an apartment consisting of three paltry chambers, for which
the people demanded twelve livres a day: for dinner and supper
they asked thirty-two, besides three livres for my servant; so
that my daily expence would have amounted to about forty-seven
livres, exclusive of breakfast and coffee in the afternoon. I was
so provoked at this extortion, that, without answering one word,
I drove to another auberge, where I now am, and pay at the rate
of two-and-thirty livres a day, for which I am very badly lodged,
and but very indifferently entertained. I mention these
circumstances to give you an idea of the imposition to which
strangers are subject in this country. It must be owned, however,
that in the article of eating, I might save half the money by
going to the public ordinary; but this is a scheme of oeconomy,
which (exclusive of other disagreeable circumstances) neither my
own health, nor that of my wife permits me to embrace. My journey
from Paris to Lyons, including the hire of the coach, and all
expences on the road, has cost me, within a few shillings, forty
loui'dores. From Paris our baggage (though not plombe) was not
once examined till we arrived in this city, at the gate of which
we were questioned by one of the searchers, who, being tipt with
half a crown, allowed us to proceed without further enquiry,
I purposed to stay in Lyons until I should receive some letters I
expected from London, to be forwarded by my banker at Paris: but
the enormous expence of living in this manner has determined me
to set out in a day or two for Montpellier, although that place
is a good way out of the road to Nice. My reasons for taking that
route I shall communicate in my next. Mean-while, I am ever, -
Dear Sir, Your affectionate and obliged humble servant.
LETTER IX
MONTPELLIER, November 5, 1763.
DEAR SIR, - The city of Lyons has been so often and so
circumstantially described, that I cannot pretend to say any
thing new on the subject. Indeed, I know very little of it, but
what I have read in books; as I had but one day to make a tour of
the streets, squares, and other remarkable places. The bridge
over the Rhone seems to be so slightly built, that I should
imagine it would be one day carried away by that rapid river;
especially as the arches are so small, that, after great rains
they are sometimes bouchees, or stopped up; that is, they do not
admit a sufficient passage for the encreased body of the water.
In order to remedy this dangerous defect, in some measure, they
found an artist some years ago, who has removed a middle pier,
and thrown two arches into one. This alteration they looked upon
as a masterpiece in architecture, though there is many a common
mason in England, who would have undertaken and performed the
work, without valuing himself much upon the enterprize. This
bridge, as well as that of St. Esprit, is built, not in a strait
line across the river, but with a curve, which forms a convexity
to oppose the current. Such a bend is certainly calculated for
the better resisting the general impetuosity of the stream, and
has no bad effect to the eye.
Lyons is a great, populous, and flourishing city but I am
surprised to find it is counted a healthy place, and that the air
of it is esteemed favourable to pulmonic disorders. It is
situated on the confluence of two large rivers, from which there
must be a great evaporation, as well as from the low marshy
grounds, which these rivers often overflow.
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