A Foreigner, In Passing Through This Beggarly And Ruinous
Suburb, Conceives Such An Idea Of Misery And Meanness, As All The
Wealth And Magnificence Of London And Westminster Are Afterwards
Unable To Destroy.
A friend of mine, who brought a Parisian from
Dover in his own post-chaise, contrived to enter Southwark after
it was dark, that his friend might not perceive the nakedness of
this quarter.
The stranger was much pleased with the great number
of shops full of merchandize, lighted up to the best advantage.
He was astonished at the display of riches in Lombard-Street and
Cheapside. The badness of the pavement made him find the streets
twice as long as they were. They alighted in Upper Brook-Street
by Grosvenor-Square; and when his conductor told him they were
then about the middle of London, the Frenchman declared, with
marks of infinite surprize, that London was very near as long as
Paris.
On my arrival at Dover I payed off my coachman, who went away
with a heavy heart. He wanted much to cross the sea, and
endeavoured to persuade me to carry the coach and horses to the
other side. If I had been resolved to set out immediately for the
South, perhaps I should have taken his advice. If I had retained
him at the rate of twenty guineas per month, which was the price
he demanded, and begun my journey without hesitation, I should
travel more agreeably than I can expect to do in the carriages of
this country; and the difference of the expence would be a mere
trifle. I would advise every man who travels through France to
bring his own vehicle along with him, or at least to purchase one
at Calais or Boulogne, where second-hand berlins and chaises may
be generally had at reasonable rates. I have been offered a very
good berlin for thirty guineas: but before I make the purchase, I
must be better informed touching the different methods of
travelling in this country.
Dover is commonly termed a den of thieves; and I am afraid it is
not altogether without reason, it has acquired this appellation.
The people are said to live by piracy in time of war; and by
smuggling and fleecing strangers in time of peace: but I will do
them the justice to say, they make no distinction between
foreigners and natives. Without all doubt a man cannot be much
worse lodged and worse treated in any part of Europe; nor will he
in any other place meet with more flagrant instances of fraud,
imposition, and brutality. One would imagine they had formed a
general conspiracy against all those who either go to, or return
from the continent. About five years ago, in my passage from
Flushing to Dover, the master of the packet-boat brought-to all
of a sudden off the South Foreland, although the wind was as
favourable as it could blow. He was immediately boarded by a
customhouse boat, the officer of which appeared to be his friend.
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