DEAR SIR, - Having Seen All The Curiosities Of Florence, And Hired
A Good Travelling Coach For Seven Weeks, At The Price Of Seven
Zequines, Something Less Than Three Guineas And A Half, We Set
Out Post For Rome, By The Way Of Sienna, Where We Lay The First
Night.
The country through which we passed is mountainous but
agreeable.
Of Sienna I can say nothing from my own observation,
but that we were indifferently lodged in a house that stunk like
a privy, and fared wretchedly at supper. The city is large and
well built: the inhabitants pique themselves upon their
politeness, and the purity of their dialect. Certain it is, some
strangers reside in this place on purpose to learn the best
pronunciation of the Italian tongue. The Mosaic pavement of their
duomo, or cathedral, has been much admired; as well as the
history of Aeneas Sylvius, afterwards pope Pius II., painted on
the walls of the library, partly by Pietro Perugino, and partly
by his pupil Raphael D'Urbino.
Next day, at Buon Convento, where the emperor Henry VII. was
poisoned by a friar with the sacramental wafer, I refused to give
money to the hostler, who in revenge put two young unbroke stone-horses
in the traces next to the coach, which became so unruly,
that before we had gone a quarter of a mile, they and the
postilion were rolling in the dust. In this situation they made
such efforts to disengage themselves, and kicked with such
violence, that I imagined the carriage and all our trunks would
have been beaten in pieces.
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