Indeed The Stranger Seems To Be Left Intirely At
The Mercy Of Those Fellows, Except In Large Towns, Where He May
Have Recourse To The Magistrate Or Commanding Officer.
The post
stands very often by itself in a lone country situation, or in a
paultry village, where the
Post-master is the principal
inhabitant; and in such a case, if you should be ill-treated, by
being supplied with bad horses; if you should be delayed on
frivolous pretences, in order to extort money; if the postilions
should drive at a waggon pace, with a view to provoke your
impatience; or should you in any shape be insulted by them or
their masters; and I know not any redress you can have, except by
a formal complaint to the comptroller of the posts, who is
generally one of the ministers of state, and pays little or no
regard to any such representations. I know an English gentleman,
the brother of an earl, who wrote a letter of complaint to the
Duc de Villars, governor of Provence, against the post-master of
Antibes, who had insulted and imposed upon him. The duke answered
his letter, promising to take order that the grievance should be
redressed; and never thought of it after. Another great
inconvenience which attends posting in France, is that if you are
retarded by any accident, you cannot in many parts of the kingdom
find a lodging, without perhaps travelling two or three posts
farther than you would choose to go, to the prejudice of your
health, and even the hazard of your life; whereas on any part of
the post-road in England, you will meet with tolerable
accommodation at every stage. Through the whole south of France,
except in large cities, the inns are cold, damp, dark, dismal,
and dirty; the landlords equally disobliging and rapacious; the
servants aukward, sluttish, and slothful; and the postilions
lazy, lounging, greedy, and impertinent. If you chide them for
lingering, they will continue to delay you the longer: if you
chastise them with sword, cane, cudgel, or horse-whip, they will
either disappear entirely, and leave you without resource; or
they will find means to take vengeance by overturning your
carriage. The best method I know of travelling with any degree of
comfort, is to allow yourself to become the dupe of imposition,
and stimulate their endeavours by extraordinary gratifications. I
laid down a resolution (and kept it) to give no more than four
and twenty sols per post between the two postilions; but I am now
persuaded that for three-pence a post more, I should have been
much better served, and should have performed the journey with
much greater pleasure. We met with no adventures upon the road
worth reciting. The first day we were retarded about two hours by
the dutchess D - lle, and her son the duc de R - f - t, who by
virtue of an order from the minister, had anticipated all the
horses at the post.
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