Without All Doubt, It Must Be Owing To The Folly
And Extravagance Of English Travellers, Who Have Allowed
Themselves To Be Fleeced Without Wincing, Until This Extortion Is
Become Authorized By Custom.
It is very disagreeable riding in
the avenues of Marseilles, because you are confined in a dusty
high road, crouded with carriages and beasts of burden, between
two white walls, the reflection from which, while the sun shines,
is intolerable.
But in this neighbourhood there is a vast number
of pleasant country-houses, called Bastides, said to amount to
twelve thousand, some of which may be rented ready furnished at a
very reasonable price. Marseilles is a gay city, and the
inhabitants indulge themselves in a variety of amusements.
They have assemblies, a concert spirituel, and a comedy.
Here is also a spacious cours, or walk shaded with trees, to
which in the evening there is a great resort of well-dressed
people.
Marseilles being a free port, there is a bureau about half a
league from the city on the road to Aix, where all carriages
undergo examination; and if any thing contraband is found, the
vehicle, baggage, and even the horses are confiscated. We escaped
this disagreeable ceremony by the sagacity of our driver. Of his
own accord, he declared at the bureau, that we had bought a pound
of coffee and some sugar at Marseilles, and were ready to pay the
duty, which amounted to about ten sols. They took the money, gave
him a receipt, and let the carriage pass, without further
question.
I proposed to stay one night only at Aix: but Mr. A - r, who is
here, had found such benefit from drinking the waters, that I was
persuaded to make trial of them for eight or ten days. I have
accordingly taken private lodgings, and drank them at the
fountain-head, not without finding considerable benefit. In my
next I shall say something further of these waters, though I am
afraid they will not prove a source of much entertainment. It
will be sufficient for me to find them contribute in any degree
to the health of - Dear Sir, Yours assuredly.
LETTER XL
BOULOGNE, May 23, 1765.
DEAR DOCTOR, - I found three English families at Aix, with whom I
could have passed my time very agreeably
but the society is now dissolved. Mr. S - re and his lady left the
place in a few days after we arrived. Mr. A - r and lady Betty are
gone to Geneva; and Mr. G - r with his family remains at Aix. This
gentleman, who laboured under a most dreadful nervous asthma, has
obtained such relief from this climate, that he intends to stay
another year in the place: and Mr. A - r found surprizing benefit
from drinking the waters, for a scorbutical complaint. As I was
incommoded by both these disorders, I could not but in justice to
myself, try the united efforts of the air and the waters;
especially as this consideration was re-inforced by the kind and
pressing exhortations of Mr. A - r and lady Betty, which I could
not in gratitude resist.
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