The Road From Hence To Florence Is
Nothing But A Succession Of Steep Mountains, Paved And Conducted
In Such A Manner, That One Would Imagine The Design Had Been To
Render It Impracticable By Any Sort Of Wheel-Carriage.
Notwithstanding all our endeavours, I found it would be
impossible to enter Florence before the gates were shut.
I
flattered and threatened the driver by turns: but the fellow, who
had been remarkably civil at first, grew sullen and impertinent.
He told me I must not think of reaching Florence: that the boat
would not take the carriage on board; and that from the other
side, I must walk five miles before I should reach the gate that
was open: but he would carry me to an excellent osteria, where I
should be entertained and lodged like a prince. I was now
convinced that he had lingered on purpose to serve this inn-keeper;
and I took it for granted that what he told me of the
distance between the ferry and the gate was a lie. It was eight
o'clock when we arrived at his inn. I alighted with my wife to
view the chambers, desiring he would not put up his horses.
Finding it was a villainous house, we came forth, and, by this
time, the horses were put up. I asked the fellow how he durst
presume to contradict my orders, and commanded him to put them to
the chaise. He asked in his turn if I was mad? If I thought I and
the lady had strength and courage enough to walk five miles in
the dark, through a road which we did not know, and which was
broke up by a continued rain of two days? I told him he was an
impertinent rascal, and as he still hesitated, I collared him
with one hand, and shook my cane over his head with the other. It
was the only weapon I had, either offensive or defensive; for I
had left my sword, and musquetoon in the coach. At length the
fellow obeyed, though with great reluctance, cracking many severe
jokes upon us in the mean time, and being joined in his raillery
by the inn-keeper, who had all the external marks of a ruffian.
The house stood in a solitary situation, and not a soul appeared
but these two miscreants, so that they might have murdered us
without fear of detection. "You do not like the apartments? (said
one) to be sure they were not fitted up for persons of your rank
and quality!" "You will be glad of a worse chamber, (continued
the other) before you get to bed." "If you walk to Florence
tonight, you will sleep so sound, that the fleas will not disturb
you." "Take care you do not take up your night's lodging in the
middle of the road, or in the ditch of the city-wall." I fired
inwardly at these sarcasms, to which, however, I made no reply;
and my wife was almost dead with fear.
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