Under the olive and fig trees, they plant corn and
vines, so that there is not an inch of ground unlaboured:
But
here are no open fields, meadows, or cattle to be seen. The
ground is overloaded; and the produce of it crowded to such a
degree, as to have a bad effect upon the eye, impressing the
traveller with the ideas of indigence and rapacity. The heat in
summer is so excessive, that cattle would find no green forage,
every blade of grass being parched up and destroyed. The weather
was extremely hot when we entered Montpellier, and put up at the
Cheval Blanc, counted the best auberge in the place, tho' in fact
it is a most wretched hovel, the habitation of darkness, dirt,
and imposition. Here I was obliged to pay four livres a meal for
every person in my family, and two livres at night for every bed,
though all in the same room: one would imagine that the further
we advance to the southward the living is the dearer, though in
fact every article of housekeeping is cheaper in Languedoc than
many other provinces of France. This imposition is owing to the
concourse of English who come hither, and, like simple birds of
passage, allow themselves to be plucked by the people of the
country, who know their weak side, and make their attacks
accordingly. They affect to believe, that all the travellers of
our country are grand seigneurs, immensely rich and incredibly
generous; and we are silly enough to encourage this opinion, by
submitting quietly to the most ridiculous extortion, as well as
by committing acts of the most absurd extravagance.
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