But, At Present,
Neither The One Nor The Other Is To Be Had Except Among The Ruins
Of Antiquity.] There Is A Great Number Of Massy Pillars Of
Porphyry, Granite, Jasper, Giullo, And Verde Antico, Together
With Some Good Pictures And Statues:
But the greatest curiosity
is that of the brass-gates, designed and executed by John of
Bologna, representing, embossed in different compartments, the
history of the Old and New Testament.
I was so charmed with this
work, that I could have stood a whole day to examine and admire
it. In the Baptisterium, which stands opposite to this front,
there are some beautiful marbles, particularly the font, and a
pulpit, supported by the statues of different animals.
Between the cathedral and this building, about one hundred paces
on one side, is the famous burying-ground, called Campo Santo,
from its being covered with earth brought from Jerusalem. It is
an oblong square, surrounded by a very high wall, and always kept
shut. Within-side there is a spacious corridore round the whole
space, which is a noble walk for a contemplative philosopher. It
is paved chiefly with flat grave-stones: the walls are painted in
fresco by Ghiotto, Giottino, Stefano, Bennoti, Bufalmaco, and
some others of his cotemporaries and disciples, who flourished
immediately after the restoration of painting. The subjects are
taken from the Bible. Though the manner is dry, the drawing
incorrect, the design generally lame, and the colouring
unnatural; yet there is merit in the expression: and the whole
remains as a curious monument of the efforts made by this noble
art immediately after her revival. [The History of Job by Giotto
is much admired.] Here are some deceptions in perspective equally
ingenious and pleasing; particularly the figures of certain
animals, which exhibit exactly the same appearance, from whatever
different points of view they are seen. One division of the
burying-ground consists of a particular compost, which in nine
days consumes the dead bodies to the bones: in all probability,
it is no other than common earth mixed with quick-lime. At one
corner of the corridore, there are the pictures of three bodies
represented in the three different stages of putrefaction which
they undergo when laid in this composition. At the end of the
three first days, the body is bloated and swelled, and the
features are enlarged and distorted to such a degree, as fills
the spectator with horror. At the sixth day, the swelling is
subsided, and all the muscular flesh hangs loosened from the
bones: at the ninth, nothing but the skeleton remains. There is a
small neat chapel at one end of the Campo Santo, with some tombs,
on one of which is a beautiful bust by Buona Roti. [Here is a
sumptuous cenotaph erected by Pope Gregory XIII. to the memory of
his brother Giovanni Buoncampagni. It is called the Monumentum
Gregorianum, of a violet-coloured marble from Scravezza in this
neighbourhood, adorned with a couple of columns of Touchstone,
and two beautiful spherical plates of Alabaster.] At the other
end of the corridore, there is a range of antient sepulchral
stones ornamented with basso-relievo brought hither from
different parts by the Pisan Fleets in the course of their
expeditions.
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