But I Have Detained You So
Long, That I Believe You Wish I May Proceed No Farther; And
Therefore I Take My Leave For The Present, Being Very Sincerely -
Yours.
LETTER XXVI
NICE, January 15, 1765.
DEAR SIR, - It is not without reason that Genoa is called La
superba. The city itself is very stately; and the nobles are very
proud. Some few of them may be proud of their wealth: but, in
general, their fortunes are very small. My friend Mr. R - assured
me that many Genoese noblemen had fortunes of half a million of
livres per annum: but the truth is, the whole revenue of the
state does not exceed this sum; and the livre of Genoa is but
about nine pence sterling. There are about half a dozen of their
nobles who have ten thousand a year: but the majority have not
above a twentieth part of that sum. They live with great
parsimony in their families; and wear nothing but black in
public; so that their expences are but small. If a Genoese
nobleman gives an entertainment once a quarter, he is said to
live upon the fragments all the rest of the year. I was told that
one of them lately treated his friends, and left the
entertainment to the care of his son, who ordered a dish of fish
that cost a zechine, which is equal to about ten shillings
sterling. The old gentleman no sooner saw it appear on the table,
than unable to suppress his concern, he burst into tears, and
exclaimed, Ah Figliuolo indegno! Siamo in Rovina! Siamo in
precipizio! Ah, Prodigal! ruined! undone!
I think the pride or ostentation of the Italians in general takes
a more laudable turn than that of other nations. A Frenchman lays
out his whole revenue upon tawdry suits of cloaths, or in
furnishing a magnificent repas of fifty or a hundred dishes, one
half of which are not eatable nor intended to be eaten. His
wardrobe goes to the fripier; his dishes to the dogs, and himself
to the devil, and after his decease no vestige of him remains. A
Genoese, on the other hand, keeps himself and his family at short
allowance, that he may save money to build palaces and churches,
which remain to after-ages so many monuments of his taste, piety,
and munificence; and in the mean time give employment and bread
to the poor and industrious. There are some Genoese nobles who
have each five or six elegant palaces magnificently furnished,
either in the city, or in different parts of the Riviera. The two
streets called Strada Balbi and Strada Nuova, are continued
double ranges of palaces adorned with gardens and fountains: but
their being painted on the outside has, in my opinion, a poor
effect.
The commerce of this city is, at present, not very considerable;
yet it has the face of business. The streets are crowded with
people; the shops are well furnished; and the markets abound with
all sorts of excellent provision.
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