You Will Be Surprised That We Did Not
Go Ashore Sooner, In Order To Take Some Refreshment; But The
Truth
Is, we had a provision of ham, tongues, roasted pullets,
cheese, bread, wine, and fruit, in the feluca, where we
Every day
enjoyed a slight repast about one or two o'clock in the
afternoon. This I mention as a necessary piece of information to
those who may be inclined to follow the same route. We likewise
found it convenient to lay in store of l'eau de vie, or brandy,
for the use of the rowers, who always expect to share your
comforts. On a meagre day, however, those ragamuffins will
rather die of hunger than suffer the least morsel of flesh-meat
to enter their mouths. I have frequently tried the experiment, by
pressing them to eat something gras, on a Friday or Saturday: but
they always declined it with marks of abhorrence, crying, Dio me
ne libere! God deliver me from it! or some other words to that
effect. I moreover observed, that not one of those fellows ever
swore an oath, or spoke an indecent word. They would by no means
put to sea, of a morning, before they had heard mass; and when
the wind was unfavourable, they always set out with a hymn to the
Blessed Virgin, or St. Elmo, keeping time with their oars as they
sung. I have indeed remarked all over this country, that a man
who transgresses the institutions of the church in these small
matters, is much more infamous than one who has committed the
most flagrant crimes against nature and morality. A murderer,
adulterer, or s - m - te, will obtain easy absolution from the
church, and even find favour with society; but a man who eats a
pidgeon on a Saturday, without express licence, is avoided and
abhorred, as a monster of reprobation. I have conversed with
several intelligent persons on the subject; and have reason to
believe, that a delinquent of this sort is considered as a luke-warm
catholic, little better than a heretic; and of all crimes
they look upon heresy as the most damnable.
Noli is a small republic of fishermen subject to Genoa; but very
tenacious of their privileges. The town stands on the beach,
tolerably well built, defended by a castle situated on a rock
above it; and the harbour is of little consequence. The auberge
was such as made us regret even the inn we had left at St. Remo.
After a very odd kind of supper, which I cannot pretend to
describe, we retired to our repose: but I had not been in bed
five minutes, when I felt something crawling on different parts
of my body, and taking a light to examine, perceived above a
dozen large bugs. You must know I have the same kind of antipathy
to these vermin, that some persons have to a cat or breast of
veal. I started up immediately, and wrapping myself in a great
coat, sick as I was, laid down in the outer room upon a chest,
where I continued till morning.
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