The Patron Was Not
At Home." When He Desired To Know Where The Patron Was, The Other
Answered, "He Was Gone To Take The Air." E Andato A Passeggiare.
In the mean time, we were obliged to sit in the common room among
watermen and muleteers.
At length the landlord arrived, and gave
us to understand, that he could accommodate us with chambers. In
that where I lay, there was just room for two beds, without
curtains or bedstead, an old rotten table covered with dried
figs, and a couple of crazy chairs. The walls had been once
white-washed: but were now hung with cobwebs, and speckled with
dirt of all sorts; and I believe the brick-floor had not been
swept for half a century. We supped in an outward room suitable
in all respects to the chamber, and fared villainously. The
provision was very ill-dressed, and served up in the most
slovenly manner. You must not expect cleanliness or conveniency
of any kind in this country. For this accommodation I payed as
much as if I had been elegantly entertained in the best auberge
of France or Italy.
Next day, the wind was so high that we could not prosecute our
voyage, so that we were obliged to pass other four and twenty
hours in this comfortable situation. Luckily Mr. R - found two
acquaintances in the place; one a Franciscan monk, a jolly
fellow; and the other a maestro di capella, who sent a spinnet to
the inn, and entertained us agreeably with his voice and
performance, in both of which accomplishments he excelled. The
padre was very good humoured, and favoured us with a letter of
recommendation to a friend of his, a professor in the university
of Pisa. You would laugh to see the hyperbolical terms in which
he mentioned your humble servant; but Italy is the native country
of hyperbole.
St. Remo is a pretty considerable town, well-built upon the
declivity of a gently rising hill, and has a harbour capable of
receiving small vessels, a good number of which are built upon
the beach: but ships of any burden are obliged to anchor in the
bay, which is far from being secure. The people of St. Remo form
a small republic, which is subject to Genoa.
They enjoyed particular privileges, till the year 1753, when in
consequence of a new gabelle upon salt, they revolted: but this
effort in behalf of liberty did not succeed. They were soon
reduced by the Genoese, who deprived them of all their
privileges, and built a fort by the sea-side, which serves the
double purpose of defending the harbour and over-awing the town.
The garrison at present does not exceed two hundred men. The
inhabitants are said to have lately sent a deputation to
Ratisbon, to crave the protection of the diet of the empire.
There is very little plain ground in this neighbourhood; but the
hills are covered with oranges, lemons, pomegranates, and olives,
which produce a considerable traffic in fine fruit and excellent
oil.
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