In This Country I Was Almost Poisoned With
Garlic, Which They Mix In Their Ragouts, And All Their Sauces;
Nay, The Smell Of It Perfumes The Very Chambers, As Well As Every
Person You Approach.
I was also very sick of been ficas, grives,
or thrushes, and other little birds, which are served up twice a
day at all ordinaries on the road.
They make their appearance in
vine-leaves, and are always half raw, in which condition the
French choose to eat them, rather than run the risque of losing
the juice by over-roasting.
The peasants on the South of France are poorly clad, and look as
if they were half-starved, diminutive, swarthy, and meagre; and
yet the common people who travel, live luxuriously on the road.
Every carrier and mule-driver has two meals a day, consisting
each of a couple of courses and a dessert, with tolerable small
wine. That which is called hermitage, and grows in this province
of Dauphine, is sold on the spot for three livres a bottle. The
common draught, which you have at meals in this country, is
remarkably strong, though in flavour much inferior to that of
Burgundy. The accommodation is tolerable, though they demand
(even in this cheap country) the exorbitant price of four livres
a head for every meal, of those who choose to eat in their own
apartments. I insisted, however, upon paying them with three,
which they received, though not without murmuring and seeming
discontented.
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