A Man Who Has Nothing But Expedition In View, May Go With The
Courier, Who Has Always A Light Boat Well Manned, And Will Be
Glad To Accommodate A Traveller For A Reasonable Gratification.
I
know an English gentleman who always travels with the courier in
Italy, both by sea and land.
In posting by land, he is always
sure of having part of a good calash, and the best horses that
can be found; and as the expence of both is defrayed by the
public, it costs him nothing but a present to his companion,
which does not amount to one fourth part of the expence he would
incur by travelling alone. These opportunities may be had every
week in all the towns of Italy.
For my own part, I hired a gondola from hence to Genoa. This is a
boat smaller than a feluca, rowed by four men, and steered by the
patron; but the price was nine zequines, rather more than I
should have payed for a feluca of ten oars. I was assured that
being very light, it would make great way; and the master was
particularly recommended to me, as an honest man and an able
mariner. I was accompanied in this voyage by my wife and Miss C - ,
together with one Mr. R - , a native of Nice, whom I treated
with the jaunt, in hopes that as he was acquainted with the
customs of the country, and the different ways of travelling in
it, he would save us much trouble, and some expence: but I was
much disappointed. Some persons at Nice offered to lay wagers
that he would return by himself from Italy; but they were also
disappointed.
We embarked in the beginning of September, attended by one
servant. The heats, which render travelling dangerous in Italy,
begin to abate at this season. The weather was extremely
agreeable; and if I had postponed my voyage a little longer, I
foresaw that I should not be able to return before winter: in
which case I might have found the sea too rough, and the weather
too cold for a voyage of one hundred and thirty-five miles in an
open boat.
Having therefore provided myself with a proper pass, signed and
sealed by our consul, as well as with letters of recommendation
from him to the English consuls at Genoa and Leghorn, a
precaution which I would advise all travellers to take, in case
of meeting with accidents on the road, we went on board about ten
in the morning, stopped about half an hour at a friend's country-house
in the bay of St. Hospice, and about noon entered the
harbour of Monaco, where the patron was obliged to pay toll,
according to the regulation which I have explained in a former
letter. This small town, containing about eight or nine hundred
souls, besides the garrison, is built on a rock which projects
into the sea, and makes a very romantic appearance. The prince's
palace stands in the most conspicuous part, with a walk of trees
before it.
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