We Have Potatoes From The Mountains, Mushrooms,
Champignons, And Truffles.
Piedmont affords white truffles,
counted the most delicious in the world:
They sell for about
three livres the pound. The fruits of this season are pickled
olives, oranges, lemons, citrons, citronelles, dried figs,
grapes, apples, pears, almonds, chestnuts, walnuts, filberts,
medlars, pomegranates, and a fruit called azerolles, [The
Italians call them Lazerruoli.] about the size of a nutmeg, of an
oblong shape, red colour, and agreeable acid taste. I might
likewise add the cherry of the Laurus cerasus, which is sold in
the market; very beautiful to the eye, but insipid to the palate.
In summer we have all those vegetables in perfection. There is
also a kind of small courge, or gourd, of which the people of the
country make a very savoury ragout, with the help of eggs,
cheese, and fresh anchovies. Another is made of the badenjean,
which the Spaniards call berengena: [This fruit is called
Melanzana in Italy and is much esteemed by the Jews in Leghorn.
Perhaps Melanzana is a corruption of Malamsana.] it is much eaten
in Spain and the Levant, as well as by the Moors in Barbary. It
is about the size and shape of a hen's egg, inclosed in a cup
like an acorn; when ripe, of a faint purple colour. It grows on a
stalk about a foot high, with long spines or prickles. The people
here have different ways of slicing and dressing it, by broiling,
boiling, and stewing, with other ingredients: but it is at best
an insipid dish. There are some caperbushes in this
neighbourhood, which grow wild in holes of garden walls, and
require no sort of cultivation: in one or two gardens, there are
palm-trees; but the dates never ripen. In my register of the
weather, I have marked the seasons of the principal fruits in
this country. In May we have strawberries, which continue in
season two or three months. These are of the wood kind; very
grateful, and of a good flavour; but the scarlets and hautboys
are not known at Nice. In the beginning of June, and even sooner,
the cherries begin to be ripe. They are a kind of bleeding
hearts; large, fleshy, and high flavoured, though rather too
luscious. I have likewise seen a few of those we call Kentish
cherries which are much more cool, acid, and agreeable,
especially in this hot climate. The cherries are succeeded by the
apricots and peaches, which are all standards, and of consequence
better flavoured than what we call wall-fruit. The trees, as well
as almonds, grow and bear without care and cultivation, and may
be seen in the open fields about Nice. but without proper
culture, the fruit degenerates. The best peaches I have seen at
Nice are the amberges, of a yellow hue, and oblong shape, about
the size of a small lemon. Their consistence is much more solid
than that of our English peaches, and their taste more delicious.
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