For, You Must
Understand, This Italian Fashion Prevails At Nice Among All Ranks
Of People; And There Is Not Such A Passion As Jealousy Known.
The
husband and the cicisbeo live together as sworn brothers; and the
wife and the mistress embrace each other with marks of the
warmest affection.
I do not choose to enter into particulars. I
cannot open the scandalous chronicle of Nice, without hazard of
contamination. With respect to delicacy and decorum, you may
peruse dean Swift's description of the Yahoos, and then you will
have some idea of the porcheria, that distinguishes the gallantry
of Nice. But the Pare is not the only place of public resort for
our noblesse in a summer's evening. Just without one of our
gates, you will find them seated in ditches on the highway side,
serenaded with the croaking of frogs, and the bells and braying
of mules and asses continually passing in a perpetual cloud of
dust. Besides these amusements, there is a public conversazione
every evening at the commandant's house called the Government,
where those noble personages play at cards for farthings. In
carnival time, there is also, at this same government, a ball
twice or thrice a week, carried on by subscription. At this
assembly every person, without distinction, is permitted to dance
in masquerade: but, after dancing, they are obliged to unmask,
and if Bourgeois, to retire. No individual can give a ball,
without obtaining a permission and guard of the commandant; and
then his house is open to all masques, without distinction, who
are provided with tickets, which tickets are sold by the
commandant's secretary, at five sols a-piece, and delivered to
the guard at the door. If I have a mind to entertain my
particular friends, I cannot have more than a couple of violins;
and, in that case, it is called a conversazione.
Though the king of Sardinia takes all opportunities to
distinguish the subjects of Great-Britain with particular marks
of respect, I have seen enough to be convinced, that our nation
is looked upon with an evil eye by the people of Nice; and this
arises partly from religious prejudices, and partly from envy,
occasioned by a ridiculous notion of our superior wealth. For my
own part, I owe them nothing on the score of civilities; and
therefore, I shall say nothing more on the subject, lest I should
be tempted to deviate from that temperance and impartiality which
I would fain hope have hitherto characterised the remarks of, -
Dear Sir, your faithful, humble servant.
LETTER XVIII
NICE, September 2, 1764.
DEAR DOCTOR, - I wrote in May to Mr. B - at Geneva, and gave him
what information he desired to have, touching the conveniences of
Nice. I shall now enter into the same detail, for the benefit of
such of your friends or patients, as may have occasion to try
this climate.
The journey from Calais to Nice, of four persons in a coach, or
two post-chaises, with a servant on horseback, travelling post,
may be performed with ease, for about one hundred and twenty
pounds, including every expence.
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