On The City Side, There Is A Semi-Circular
Quay Of Free-Stone, Which Extends Thirteen Hundred
Paces; And The Space Between This And The Houses That Front It,
Is Continually Filled With A Surprising Crowd Of People.
The
gallies, to the number of eight or nine, are moored with their
sterns to one part of the wharf, and the slaves are permitted to
work for their own benefit at their respective occupations, in
little shops or booths, which they rent for a trifle.
There you
see tradesmen of all kinds sitting at work, chained by one foot,
shoe-makers, taylors, silversmiths, watch and clock-makers,
barbers, stocking-weavers, jewellers, pattern-drawers,
scriveners, booksellers, cutlers, and all manner of shop-keepers.
They pay about two sols a day to the king for this indulgence;
live well and look jolly; and can afford to sell their goods and
labour much cheaper than other dealers and tradesmen. At night,
however, they are obliged to lie aboard. Notwithstanding the
great face of business at Marseilles, their trade is greatly on
the decline; and their merchants are failing every day. This
decay of commerce is in a great measure owing to the English,
who, at the peace, poured in such a quantity of European
merchandize into Martinique and Guadalupe, that when the
merchants of Marseilles sent over their cargoes, they found the
markets overstocked, and were obliged to sell for a considerable
loss. Besides, the French colonists had such a stock of sugars,
coffee, and other commodities lying by them during the war, that
upon the first notice of peace, they shipped them off in great
quantities for Marseilles. I am told that the produce of the
islands is at present cheaper here than where it grows; and on
the other hand the merchandize of this country sells for less
money at Martinique than in Provence.
A single person, who travels in this country, may live at a
reasonable rate in these towns, by eating at the public
ordinaries: but I would advise all families that come hither to
make any stay, to take furnished lodgings as soon as they can:
for the expence of living at an hotel is enormous. I was obliged
to pay at Marseilles four livres a head for every meal, and half
that price for my servant, and was charged six livres a day
besides for the apartment, so that our daily expence, including
breakfast and a valet de place, amounted to two loui'dores. The
same imposition prevails all over the south of France, though it
is generally supposed to be the cheapest and most plentiful part
of the kingdom. Without all doubt, it must be owing to the folly
and extravagance of English travellers, who have allowed
themselves to be fleeced without wincing, until this extortion is
become authorized by custom. It is very disagreeable riding in
the avenues of Marseilles, because you are confined in a dusty
high road, crouded with carriages and beasts of burden, between
two white walls, the reflection from which, while the sun shines,
is intolerable. But in this neighbourhood there is a vast number
of pleasant country-houses, called Bastides, said to amount to
twelve thousand, some of which may be rented ready furnished at a
very reasonable price. Marseilles is a gay city, and the
inhabitants indulge themselves in a variety of amusements.
They have assemblies, a concert spirituel, and a comedy.
Here is also a spacious cours, or walk shaded with trees, to
which in the evening there is a great resort of well-dressed
people.
Marseilles being a free port, there is a bureau about half a
league from the city on the road to Aix, where all carriages
undergo examination; and if any thing contraband is found, the
vehicle, baggage, and even the horses are confiscated. We escaped
this disagreeable ceremony by the sagacity of our driver. Of his
own accord, he declared at the bureau, that we had bought a pound
of coffee and some sugar at Marseilles, and were ready to pay the
duty, which amounted to about ten sols. They took the money, gave
him a receipt, and let the carriage pass, without further
question.
I proposed to stay one night only at Aix: but Mr. A - r, who is
here, had found such benefit from drinking the waters, that I was
persuaded to make trial of them for eight or ten days. I have
accordingly taken private lodgings, and drank them at the
fountain-head, not without finding considerable benefit. In my
next I shall say something further of these waters, though I am
afraid they will not prove a source of much entertainment. It
will be sufficient for me to find them contribute in any degree
to the health of - Dear Sir, Yours assuredly.
LETTER XL
BOULOGNE, May 23, 1765.
DEAR DOCTOR, - I found three English families at Aix, with whom I
could have passed my time very agreeably
but the society is now dissolved. Mr. S - re and his lady left the
place in a few days after we arrived. Mr. A - r and lady Betty are
gone to Geneva; and Mr. G - r with his family remains at Aix. This
gentleman, who laboured under a most dreadful nervous asthma, has
obtained such relief from this climate, that he intends to stay
another year in the place: and Mr. A - r found surprizing benefit
from drinking the waters, for a scorbutical complaint. As I was
incommoded by both these disorders, I could not but in justice to
myself, try the united efforts of the air and the waters;
especially as this consideration was re-inforced by the kind and
pressing exhortations of Mr. A - r and lady Betty, which I could
not in gratitude resist.
Aix, the capital of Provence, is a large city, watered by the
small river Are. It was a Roman colony, said to be founded by
Caius Sextus Calvinus, above a century before the birth of
Christ. From the source of mineral water here found, added to the
consul's name, it was called Aquae Sextiae.
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