There Are Likewise The Remains Of Two Galleries One Over
Another; And Two Vomitoria Or Great Gateways At Opposite Sides Of
The Arena, Which Is Now A Fine Green, With A Road Through The
Middle Of It:
But all the external architecture and the ornaments
are demolished.
The most intire part of the wall now constitutes
part of a monastery, the monks of which, I am told, have helped
to destroy the amphitheatre, by removing the stones for their own
purposes of building. In the neighbourhood of this amphitheatre,
which stands without the walls, are the vestiges of an old
edifice, said to have been the palace where the imperator or
president resided: for it was a Roman colony, much favoured by
Julius Caesar, who gave it the name of Forum Julii, and Civitas
Forojuliensis. In all probability, it was he who built the
amphitheatre, and brought hither the water ten leagues from the
river of Ciagne, by means of an aqueduct, some arcades of which
are still standing on the other side of the town. A great number
of statues were found in this place, together with antient
inscriptions, which have been published by different authors. I
need not tell you that Julius Agricola, the father-in-law of
Tacitus, the historian, was a native of Frejus, which is now a
very poor inconsiderable place. From hence the country opens to
the left, forming an extensive plain between the sea and the
mountains, which are a continuation of the Alps, that stretches
through Provence and Dauphine. This plain watered with pleasant
streams, and varied with vineyards, corn-fields, and meadow-ground,
afforded a most agreeable prospect to our eyes, which
were accustomed to the sight of scorching sands, rugged rocks,
and abrupt mountains in the neighbourhood of Nice. Although this
has much the appearance of a corn-country, I am told it does not
produce enough for the consumption of its inhabitants, who are
obliged to have annual supplies from abroad, imported at
Marseilles. A Frenchman, at an average, eats three times the
quantity of bread that satisfies a native of England, and indeed
it is undoubtedly the staff of his life. I am therefore surprised
that the Provencaux do not convert part of their vineyards into
corn-fields: for they may boast of their wine as they please; but
that which is drank by the common people, not only here, but also
in all the wine countries of France, is neither so strong,
nourishing, nor (in my opinion) so pleasant to the taste as the
small-beer of England. It must be owned that all the peasants who
have wine for their ordinary drink are of a diminutive size, in
comparison of those who use milk, beer, or even water; and it is
a constant observation, that when there is a scarcity of wine,
the common people are always more healthy, than in those seasons
when it abounds. The longer I live, the more I am convinced that
wine, and all fermented liquors, are pernicious to the human
constitution; and that for the preservation of health, and
exhilaration of the spirits, there is no beverage comparable to
simple water. Between Luc and Toulon, the country is delightfully
parcelled out into inclosures. Here is plenty of rich pasturage
for black cattle, and a greater number of pure streams and
rivulets than I have observed in any other parts of France.
Toulon is a considerable place, even exclusive of the basin,
docks, and arsenal, which indeed are such as justify the remark
made by a stranger when he viewed them. "The king of France (said
he) is greater at Toulon than at Versailles." The quay, the
jetties, the docks, and magazines, are contrived and executed
with precision, order, solidity, and magnificence. I counted
fourteen ships of the line lying unrigged in the basin, besides
the Tonant of eighty guns, which was in dock repairing, and a new
frigate on the stocks. I was credibly informed that in the last
war, the king of France was so ill-served with cannon for his
navy, that in every action there was scarce a ship which had not
several pieces burst. These accidents did great damage, and
discouraged the French mariners to such a degree, that they
became more afraid of their own guns than of those of the
English. There are now at Toulon above two thousand pieces of
iron cannon unfit for service. This is an undeniable proof of the
weakness and neglect of the French administration: but a more
suprizing proof of their imbecility, is the state of the
fortifications that defend the entrance of this very harbour. I
have some reason to think that they trusted for its security
entirely to our opinion that it must be inaccessible. Capt. E - ,
of one of our frigates, lately entered the harbour with a
contrary wind, which by obliging him to tack, afforded an
opportunity of sounding the whole breadth and length of the
passage. He came in without a pilot, and made a pretence of
buying cordage, or some other stores; but the French officers
were much chagrined at the boldness of his enterprize. They
alleged that he came for no other reason but to sound the
channel; and that he had an engineer aboard, who made drawings of
the land and the forts, their bearings and distances. In all
probability, these suspicions were communicated to the ministry;
for an order immediately arrived, that no stranger should be
admitted into the docks and arsenal.
Part of the road from hence to Marseilles lies through a vast
mountain, which resembles that of Estrelles; but is not so well
covered with wood, though it has the advantage of an agreeable
stream running through the bottom.
I was much pleased with Marseilles, which is indeed a noble city,
large, populous, and flourishing. The streets of what is called
the new Town are open, airy and spacious; the houses well built,
and even magnificent. The harbour is an oval basin, surrounded on
every side either by the buildings or the land, so that the
shipping lies perfectly secure; and here is generally an
incredible number of vessels.
Enter page number
PreviousNext
Page 133 of 141
Words from 134579 to 135610
of 143308
