I cannot
bear a croud of company such as pours in upon us unexpectedly at
all hours; and I foresee, that in staying at Montpellier, I
should be led into an expence, which I can ill afford. I have
therefore forwarded the letter I received from general P - n, to
Mr. B - d, our consul at Nice, signifying my intention of going
thither, and explaining the kind of accommodation I would choose
to have at that place.
The day after our arrival, I procured tolerable lodgings in the
High Street, for which I pay fifty sols, something more than two
shillings per day; and I am furnished with two meals a day by a
traiteur for ten livres: but he finds neither the wine nor the
dessert; and indeed we are but indifferently served. Those
families who reside here find their account in keeping house.
Every traveller who comes to this, or any other, town in France
with a design to stay longer than a day or two, ought to write
beforehand to his correspondent to procure furnished lodgings, to
which he may be driven immediately, without being under the
necessity of lying in an execrable inn; for all the inns of this
country are execrable.
My baggage is not yet arrived by the canal of Languedoc; but that
gives me no disturbance, as it is consigned to the care of Mr.
Ray, an English merchant and banker of this place; a gentleman of
great probity and worth, from whom I have received repeated marks
of uncommon friendship and hospitality.
The next time you hear of me will be from Nice: mean-while, I
remain always, - Dear Sir, Your affectionate humble servant.
LETTER XI
MONTPELLIER, November 12.
DEAR DOCTOR - I flattered myself with the hope of much amusement
during my short stay at Montpellier. - The University, the
Botanical Garden, the State of
Physic in this part of the world, and the information I received
of a curious collection of manuscripts, among which I hoped to
find something for our friend Dr. H - r; all these particulars
promised a rich fund of entertainment, which, however, I cannot
enjoy.
A few days after my arrival, it began to rain with a southerly
wind, and continued without ceasing the best part of a week,
leaving the air so loaded with vapours, that there was no walking
after sun-set; without being wetted by the dew almost to the
skin. I have always found a cold and damp atmosphere the most
unfavourable of any to my constitution. My asthmatical disorder.
which had not given me much disturbance since I left Boulogne,
became now very troublesome, attended with fever, cough spitting,
and lowness of spirits; and I wasted visibly every day. I was
favoured with the advice of Dr. Fitzmaurice, a very worthy
sensible physician settled in this place: but I had the curiosity
to know the opinion of the celebrated professor F - , who is the
Boerhaave of Montpellier.