I Now Came To The Working Classes In The Vicinity
Of Reikjavik.
The saying often applied to the Swiss people, "No
money, no Swiss," one may also apply to the Icelanders.
And of this
fact I can cite several examples.
Scarcely had they heard that I, a foreigner, had arrived, than they
frequently came to me, and brought quite common objects, such as can
be found any where in Iceland, and expected me to pay dearly for
them. At first I purchased from charity, or to be rid of their
importunities, and threw the things away again; but I was soon
obliged to give this up, as I should else have been besieged from
morning to night. Their anxiety to gain money without labour
annoyed me less than the extortionate prices with which they tried
to impose on a stranger. For a beetle, such as could be found under
every stone, they asked 5 kr. (about 2d.); as much for a
caterpillar, of which thousands were lying on the beach; and for a
common bird's egg, 10 to 20 kr. (4d. to 8d.) Of course, when I
declined buying, they reduced their demand, sometimes to less than
half the original sum; but this was certainly not in consequence of
their honesty. The baker in whose house I lodged also experienced
the selfishness of these people. He had engaged a poor labourer to
tar his house, who, when he had half finished his task, heard of
other employment. He did not even take the trouble to ask the baker
to excuse him for a few days; he went away, and did not return to
finish the interrupted work for a whole week. This conduct was the
more inexcusable as his children received bread, and even butter,
twice a week from the baker.
I was fortunate enough to experience similar treatment. Herr
Knudson had engaged a guide for me, with whom I was to take my
departure in a few days. But it happened that the magistrate wished
also to take a trip, and sent for my guide. The latter expected to
be better paid by him, and went; he did not come to me to discharge
himself, but merely sent me word on the eve of my departure, that he
was ill, and could therefore not go with me. I could enumerate many
more such examples, which do not much tend to give a high estimate
of Icelandic morality.
I consoled myself with the hope of finding simplicity and honesty in
the more retired districts, and therefore anticipated a twofold
pleasure from my journey into the interior. I found many virtues,
but unfortunately so many faults, that I am no longer inclined to
exalt the Icelandic peasants as examples.
The best of their virtues is their honesty. I could leave my
baggage unguarded any where for hours, and never missed the least
article, for they did not even permit their children to touch any
thing. In this point they are so conscientious, that if a peasant
comes from a distance, and wishes to rest in a cottage, he never
fails to knock at the door, even if it is open.
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