On Rejoining My Party, I Found Them Encamped In The Meadow Around A
Table, Which Had In The Meantime Been Spread With Butter, Cheese,
Bread, Cake, Roast Lamb, Raisins And Almonds, A Few Oranges, And
Wine.
Neither chairs nor benches were to be had, for even wealthy
peasants only possess planks nailed to the walls of their rooms; so
we all sat down upon the grass, and did ample justice to the capital
coffee which made the commencement of the meal.
Laughter and jokes
predominated to such an extent, that I could have fancied myself
among impulsive Italians instead of cold Northmen.
There was no lack of wit; but to-day I was unfortunately its butt.
And what was my fault? - only my stupid modesty. The conversation
was carried on in the Danish language; some members of our party
spoke French and others German, but I purposely abstained from
availing myself of their acquirements, in order not to disturb the
hilarity of the conversation. I sat silently among them, and was
perfectly contented in listening to their merriment. But my
behaviour was set down as proceeding from stupidity, and I soon
gathered from their discourse that they were comparing me to the
"stone guest" in Mozart's Don Giovanni. If these kind people had
only surmised the true reason of my keeping silence, they would
perhaps have thanked me for doing so.
As we sat at our meal, I heard a voice in the farmhouse singing an
Icelandic song. At a distance it resembled the humming of bees; on
a nearer approach it sounded monotonous, drawling, and melancholy.
While we were preparing for our departure, the farmer, his wife, and
the servants approached, and shook each of us by the hand. This is
the usual mode of saluting such HIGH people as we numbered among our
party. The true national salutation is a hearty kiss.
On my arrival at home the effect of the strong coffee soon began to
manifest itself. I could not sleep at all, and had thus ample
leisure to make accurate observations as to the length of the day
and of the twilight. Until eleven o'clock at night I could read
ordinary print in my room. From eleven till one o'clock it was
dusk, but never so dark as to prevent my reading in the open air.
In my room, too, I could distinguish the smallest objects, and even
tell the time by my watch. At one o'clock I could again read in my
room.
EXCURSION TO VIDOE.
The little island of Vidoe, four miles distant from Reikjavik, is
described by most travellers as the chief resort of the eider-duck.
I visited the island on the 8th of June, but was disappointed in my
expectations. I certainly saw many of these birds on the
declivities and in the chasms of the rocks, sitting quietly on their
nests, but nothing approaching the thousands I had been led to
expect. On the whole, I may perhaps have seen from one hundred to a
hundred and fifty nests.
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