Here there are no doubt poor people, as there are
such every where else in the world, but one does not see them beg.
I cannot help mentioning an arrangement which certainly deserves to
be universally carried out; - I mean, the setting apart of many large
houses, partly belonging to the royal family, partly to rich private
people or to companies, for the reception of poor people, who are
here lodged at a much cheaper rate than is possible in ordinary
dwellings.
The costumes of the peasants did not particularly please me. The
women wear dresses of green or black woollen stuff, reaching to the
ankle, and trimmed at the skirt with broad coloured woollen borders.
The seams of the spenser, and the arm-holes, are also trimmed with
smaller coloured borders. On their heads they wear a handkerchief,
and over this a kind of shade, like a bonnet. On Sundays I saw many
of them in small, pretty caps, worked with silk, with a border of
lace of more than a hand's breadth, plaited very stiffly; at the
back they have large bows of fine riband, the ends of which reach
half down to their feet. I found nothing very remarkable in the
dress of the peasants. As far as strength and beauty were
concerned, I thought these peasants were neither more nor less
gifted than those of Austria. As regards the beauty of the fair
sex, I should certainly give the preference to the Austrians. Fair
hair and blue eyes predominate.
I saw but few soldiers; their uniforms, particularly those worn by
the king's life-guards, are very handsome.
I especially noticed the drummers; they were all little lads of ten
or twelve years old. One could almost have exclaimed, "Drum,
whither art thou carrying that boy?" To march, and to join in
fatiguing manoeuvres, carrying such a drum, and beating it bravely
at the same time, is rather cruel work for such young lads. Many a
ruined constitution may be ascribed to this custom.
During my stay in Copenhagen I spent many very delightful hours with
Professor Mariboe and his amiable family, and with the kind
clergyman of the embassy, Herr Zimmermann. They received me with
true politeness and hospitality, and drew me into their circle,
where I soon felt myself quite at ease. I shall never forget their
friendship, and shall make use of every opportunity to shew them my
appreciation of it. Herr Edouard Gottschalk and Herr Knudson have
also my best thanks. I applied to the first of these gentlemen to
procure me a passage to Iceland, and he was kind enough to use his
interest with Herr Knudson on my behalf.
Herr Knudson is one of the first general dealers in Copenhagen, and
carries on a larger and more extended commerce with Iceland than any
other house trading thither. He is already beginning to retire, as
the continual journeys are becoming irksome to him; but he still
owns a number of great and small vessels, which are partly employed
in the fisheries, and partly in bringing all kinds of articles of
consumption and luxury to the different harbours of Iceland.
He himself goes in one of his ships every year, and stays a few
months in Iceland to settle his affairs there. On the
recommendation of Herr Gottschalk, Herr Knudson was kind enough to
give me a passage in the ship in which he made the journey himself;
a favour which I knew how to value. It is certainly no small
kindness to take a lady passenger on such a journey. Herr Knudson
knew neither my fortitude nor my perseverance; he did not know
whether I should be able to endure the hardships of a journey to the
north, whether I would bear sea-sickness philosophically, or even if
I had courage enough, in case of storms or bad weather, to abstain
from annoying the captain by my fears or complaints at a time when
he would only have too much to harass him. The kind man allowed no
such considerations to influence him. He believed me when I
promised to behave courageously come what might, and took me with
him. Indeed his kindness went so far that it is to him I owe every
comfort I enjoyed in Iceland, and every assistance in furthering the
attainment of my journey's object. I could certainly not have
commenced a voyage under better auspices.
All ships visiting Iceland leave Copenhagen at the end of April, or
at the latest in the middle of May. After this time only one ship
is despatched, to carry the mails of the Danish government. This
vessel leaves Copenhagen in October, remains in Iceland during the
winter months, and returns in March. The gain or loss of this
expedition is distributed in shares among the merchants of
Copenhagen.
Besides this, a French frigate comes to Iceland every spring, and
cruises among the different harbours until the middle of August.
She superintends the fishing vessels, which, attracted by the large
profits of the fisheries, visit these seas in great numbers during
the summer. {17}
Opportunities of returning from Iceland occur during the summer
until the end of September, by means of the merchant-ships, which
carry freights from the island to Denmark, England, and Spain.
At length, on Sunday the 4th of May, a favourable wind sprung up.
Herr Knudson sent me word to be ready to embark at noon on board the
fine brig John.
I immediately proceeded on board. The anchor was weighed, and the
sails, unfolding themselves like giant wings, wafted us gently out
of the harbour of Copenhagen. No parting from children, relations,
or old-cherished friends embittered this hour. With a glad heart I
bade adieu to the city, in the joyful hope soon to see the
fulfilment of my long-expected journey.
