One Would Also Like To Send To The Scrap-Heap The
Enormous Seventeenth-Century Figures Of The Apostles On Their
Consoles On The Piers, Which Form So Bad A Disfigurement In The
Nave.
The treasure of the church is the great "Crucifixion" by Van
Dyck, which is hung in the south transept, but generally kept
covered.
To see other stately pictures you must go to the church
of St. Jean, where is a splendid altar triptych by Rubens, the
centre panel of which is the "Adoration of the Magi"; or to the
fifteenth-century structure of Notre Dame au dela de la Dyle (the
clumsy title is used, I suppose, for the sake of distinction from
the classical Notre Dame d'Hanswyck), where Rubens' "Miraculous
Draught of Fishes" is sometimes considered the painter's
masterpiece. It is not yet clear whether this noble picture has
been destroyed in the recent bombardment. Even to those who care
little for art, a stroll to these two old churches through the
sleepy back-streets of Malines, with their white and sunny houses,
can hardly fail to gratify.
If Malines is a backwater of the Middle Time, as somnolent or as
dull (so some, I suppose, would call it) as the strange dead towns
of the Zuyder Zee, or as Coggeshall or Thaxted in our own green
Essex, Antwerp, at any rate, which lies only some fifteen miles or
so to the north of it, is very much awake, and of aspect mostly
modern, though not without some very curious and charming relics
of antiquity embedded in the heart of much recent stone and
mortar.
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