Crowning The
Highest Point Of The City, And Towering Itself Towards Heaven In A
Stupendous Pile Of Masonry, Is The Enormous New Palais De Justice,
Probably The Most Imposing Law Courts In The World.
English Law
undoubtedly is housed with much greater modesty, though not
without due magnificence, in the altogether humbler levels of the
Strand.
Also in the High Town - which is the modern quarter of
Brussels, in contrast with the mediaeval Low Town, which lies in
the flat below - is the Royal Museum of Ancient Paintings, which
probably divides honours with the Picture Gallery at Antwerp as
the finest and most representative collection of pictures of the
Netherlandish school in the world. Here you may revel by the hour
in a candlelight effect by Gerard Dow; in the poultry of Melchior
d'Hondecoeter; in a pigsty of Paul Potter's; in landscapes by
Meindert Hobbema; in a moonlight landscape of Van der Neer's; in a
village scene by Jan Steen; in the gallant world of Teniers; and
in the weird imaginings of Pieter Brueghel the younger. The
greatest pictures in the whole collection, I suppose, are those by
Rubens, though he has nothing here that is comparable for a moment
with those in the Picture Gallery and Cathedral at Antwerp. Very
magnificent, however, is the "Woman taken in Adultery," the
"Adoration of the Magi," the "Interceder Interceded" (the Virgin,
at the prayer of St. Francis d'Assisi, restrains the angry Saviour
from destroying a wicked world), and the "Martyrdom of St.
Livinius." This last, however - like the "Crucifixion" in the
Antwerp Gallery; like Van Dyck's picture in this collection of the
drunken Silenus supported by a fawn; and like Rubens' own
disgusting Silenus in our National Gallery at home - illustrates
unpleasantly the painful Flemish facility to condescend to
details, or even whole conceptions, the realism of which is
unnecessarily deliberate and coarse.
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