I have been nearly five months in Ireland, travelling about almost
constantly, and as yet have only seen three persons who were protected
by police, two men and one woman. I decided to leave Cong, and after
studying on the map the nearest way to Castle Bellingham, determined to
take that way.
Left Cong in the early morning to sail down Lough Corrib to Galway. For
some reason the landing place has been altered, and is now some distance
from Cong, at which it used to be. This change is a drawback to Cong.
There are mills at Cong that used to grind indian corn, but they are not
used now for some reason or other, and are falling into ruin. The
shifting of the landing place was done by Lord Ardilaun, the stoppage of
the mills by him also. The landing place where the little steamer waited
for freight and passengers had a little crowd, who seemed to have more
to do than just to look on, and there was a little hum of traffic that
sounded cheerful.
It was a very windy day; Lough Corrib's waves had white caps on. The sun
came out fitfully, and the clouds swept great shadows over the mountain
sides. There were patches of green oats bathed in sunshine, and
plantations of larch and fir standing close and locked in shadow. The
wind was so strong that the little steamer seemed to plough her way with
a bobbing motion like the coots on Lough Gill. We had a fine view from
the lake of Ashford _demesne_, and the castle looking still grander
and newer in the distance, all its towers and pinnacles bathed in the
cold sunshine.
There are many islands in Lough Corrib besides the islands that the
priest and people of Clonbur built the causeway to. It is strange that
two lords take their titles from islands in this lake, Lord Inchiquin
and Lord Ardilaun. Some of the peasantry felt hurt because Lord Ardilaun
took his title from an island instead of from some part of the mainland.
I was pointed out in the distance from the lake, Moytura house, the home
of Sir William Wilde; it stands where was fought the battle of Moytura
in ancient times.
From the steamer we saw the ruined fortress, Annabreen Castle, said to
be six hundred years old. The masonry is very curious, being all done
within and without, quoins, doorways, window frames, of undressed stone,
and yet most admirably done.
I stood on the deck of the little steamer while the wind blew in the
teeth of the little boat and made her shiver and rock, and I endured
sharp neuralgiac pain, and lost my veil, which was blown off and went
sailing off into the lake because I would not miss seeing all Lough
Corrib had to show. I saw the ivy plaided walls of Caislean na
Cailliach, and on a little island the remains of an old uncemented stone
fort, so old that antiquity has forgotten it. The scenery was very
grand, the islands grassy and round, or waving with trees, the lake
covered with white horses riding with tossing manes to the shore; the
little boat with its broad breast holding its own against the swells,
the shores with green mountains checked off into fields, with higher
mountains blue in the distance rising behind them. All under
"The skies of dear Erin, our mother
Where sunshine and shadow are chasing each other."
The little steamer steamed up to the wharf and backed and stopped, in
most American fashion, at a lonely backwoods-looking wharf, but the
pillars for the snubbing rope were pillars of stone, and near were the
ruins of a tall square castle in good preservation. There are also the
walls of the bishop's residence here, with the bells of St. Brendan;
they told me this was the saint who discovered the happy land flowing
with milk and honey, the key to which lies hidden in Cuneen Miaul's tomb
and the ruins of an extensive abbey, a monastery and a nunnery and other
buildings.
Truly the banks and islands of Lough Corrib are made classic by ruins.
They say the carved mouldings and stone work on these ruins are
considered the most beautiful and most perfect in Ireland. We passed,
farther on, the ruins of Armaghdown, the castle fort of the bog. After
this the land got low and flat, and we saw Menlough Castle, where a
baronet of the name of Blake resides, when he's at home. It is counted
the most beautiful of all the ancient castles which are still inhabited.
All I can say is, it looked well from the lake. Lough Corrib is
calculated to cover 44,000 acres, and is well supplied with fish.
XLV.
THE EASTERN COAST - THE LAND QUESTION FROM A LANDLORD'S STANDPOINT.
Went through Galway to the station as fast as a jaunting car could take
me, and took the train for Dublin.
Crossing Ireland thus from Galway to Dublin, I noticed that the land got
to be more uniformly fertile as we neared the eastern coast. From Dublin
the road ran down the coast, in sight of the sea for most part. Through
counties Dublin, Meath and Louth, the land looked like the garden of
Eden. It was all like one demesne heavy with trees, interspersed with
large fields having rich crops and great meadows waving with grass; the
cultivation, so weedless, so regular, every ridge and furrow as straight
as a rule could make it, every corner cultivated most scrupulously.
