I Got A Companion, A Pretty Girl, A Permit From Some Official
Who Lived In A Cottage At Cong, And Set Out By Way Of The Pigeon Hole To
See At Least Part Of The Place.
I may as well mention here how surprised we were to hear the Antrim
tongue from the recesses of the cave, and to find a group of strangers
exploring on their own account.
They were working men who had come from
Belfast to work for Lord Ardilaun, and were making the most of a holiday
before they began. I was very much surprised to see men from Antrim,
where the wages are much higher than here, come down to work in the west
where labor is so cheap, and want of work the complaint.
To show how cheaply men work here, I may mention that being at a village
which lies outside of Lord Ardilaun's demesne, but on his estate, I was
standing on the road and a clergyman was talking in Irish to a man who
was employed at mason work in repairing the wall, a small quiet looking
man who did not stop work as he talked. Of course I could not understand
more than the scope of their discourse, but I understood distinctly one
question asked; "How much do you get for a day's work?" "One shilling
and two pence a day." "Without food of course?" "Of course." I had
heard in the North that casual laborers get two shillings a day there,
but they do not get two shillings when employed constantly. The laborers
on one well-managed estate which I have been over in Antrim are paid ten
shillings a week, and pay one shilling a week out of that for their
cottages, which are kept in good repair at the expense of their
employer. Of course these men must have been workmen skilled in some
particular work, or they would not have come from the wages of the North
to the West to work at the common rate of wage going here, which I am
told is at the highest seven shillings a week and rent to pay out of
that. Of course, when masons are paid one and twopence, laborers will be
paid much less.
The avenue along which we travelled was a causeway made at great expense
along the brow of a steep hill or rather ridge, one side being supported
by a stone wall. This work, undertaken for the benefit of travellers to
Ashford, must have afforded constant employment for a good many men for
a long time. Arriving at a modern archway in the ancient style protected
by an iron gate, we sought admittance, showing our permit from the
office. The keeper's wife examined it and passed it over to the keeper,
who examined it also, asked some prudent, cautious questions, and we
were admitted to a part of the grounds.
This gate keeper, a remarkably gentlemanly old man, in his respectable
blue broadcloth, his comely sagacious, weather-beaten face, his guarded
manner of speaking, and his name, Grant, made me quite sure that he was
a Highlandman, which he was not, but a Western Irishman. He informed us
as we went along that only part of the grounds could be seen on account
of the troubled state of the country. Whether there was any part of the
demesne that an elderly woman and a pretty girl were likely to run away
with became a subject of thought to me. Conscientiously this delightful
old man kept us off tabooed walks and shunted us into permissible
places. Where all was beautiful and new, and time having a limit, we
were quite willing when brought to order, to follow on the allowed path.
I was admiring a tree of the regally magnificent kind, leaf-draped
branches like green robes sweeping down to the emerald sward, that
always remind me of the glorious trees which sunlight loves to gild in
the grounds at Castle Coole; I remarked on its exceeding beauty to our
guide, who said it would bear a nearer view, and we followed him on a
path through the grass till we stood beside it. Parting the foliage we
found ourselves at a natural grotto of light-colored stone, where a
stream of "the purest of crystal" came from under the rock at one end,
and glancing in the stray beams of sunlight that found their way in
through the arch of leaves, flashed down a tiny cascade in a shower of
diamonds, and with a little gurgling laugh hid under the rock again,
racing on to join the subterranean waters that laugh together over the
failure of the great canal.
The new tower is built after the fashion of the ancient towers with the
spiral staircase, that was common to all castles and abbeys of the west.
The mason work was much coarser and more roughly done, but the imitation
of the ancient tower was very good other ways. I do not believe that
modern masons could produce so perfect a specimen of workmanship as the
tower of Moyne Abbey, with its spiral staircase of black marble. The
view from the top of the tower at Ashford repaid well the expenditure of
breath to climb up to it.
The house is a castle and made after the pattern of ancient castles; it
is large and must contain any amount of lofty and spacious rooms, which
it is to be supposed are furnished as luxuriously and magnificently as
possible. It is certainly a very fine building, and looks as nice and
new as stone and mortar can make it, but the ivy green will soon cover
it all up with its green mantle. We were not able to walk over even the
allowed portion of the grounds, as they extended for miles. We parted
from our gentlemanly conductor at a certain gate. He was so nice that we
felt almost ashamed to offer the expected gratuity which was, however,
thankfully received.
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