At a way station a great crowd, great
compared to the size of the compartment, came surging in. Every man had
a clay pipe, every man had a supply of the most villanous tobacco. I do
not wonder the Government taxes such tobacco, that it has to be sold by
license - some would not grieve if the duty were prohibitory.
Soon matches were struck, a tiny flash and a fusilade of reports like
toy pistols - all matches here go off like that. Every man began to smoke
for dear life, and smoked furiously with great smacks and puffs. And the
floor! when the mud of many days that had hardened and dried there was
moistened again by tobacco juice! Soon the compartment was filled with
smoke, there was literally nothing else to breathe. The car began to
heave about like a ship at sea. Fortunately we stopped at a station and
some on board got out, so that there was an opportunity of getting close
to the door and letting down the glass and a faint was prevented.
It was not pleasant to sit there craning one's neck round to breathe at
the window, for the seats ran lengthways of the carriage, and keeping
all crushed up to keep out of the way of a cross fire of tobacco juice
from the opposite benches. Made a vow there and then against third-class
carriages.
When the train stopped at Strabane was quite dizzy and sick and took
refuge in the first 'bus, which 'bus belonged to that superfine
establishment, the "Abercorn Arms." Was informed that the late Lord
Leitrim had stopped there a day or two before his death on his way to
Manorvaughan. "Stopped in this very room," said my informant. "He left
here on the Sabbath day in his own carriage for Manorvaughan; he had not
much reverence for the day. He was a very old man, walked lame with one
leg, had a fiery face and very white hair. I did think they might have
respected his gray hair. He had not long to live anyway, they might have
spared him." He rested one day at Manorvaughan, the next day he set out
for Milford and was killed.
"Why did they murder him?"
"They said he was a cruel landlord. Yes, a very bad landlord they said
he was. He was very impatient to get away from here that morning. He
little thought he was hurrying to his death."
From Strabane took the Finn Valley Railway, and went off on a voyage of
discovery to Rusky.
From Killiegordon took a first class ticket, as the distance was short,
to see what first-class passengers enjoyed. There is a great difference
indeed between first and third. Third-class is a penny a mile, first is
two pence half-penny; third is simply horrible with filth, first is as
luxurious as carpets, curtains, cushions, spring seats and easy chairs
can make it.
