Why in the world should I remember him? It is part of a system
of imposition and it would be rank communism to find fault, so I
remember him; he thanks me, and this little game of give and take ends.
Installed in the Imperial Hotel I send off my one letter of
introduction, which remains. Discover the post office, find no letters,
return and sit down to write across the water. The lady proprietor of
the Imperial Hotel has been across the Atlantic and has a warm feeling
toward the inhabitants of the great republic; she shares the benefit of
this feeling with the wandering Canadian and takes us out to see Sligo.
Gladly do we lay down the pen to look Sligo straight in the face. Sligo
looks nice and clean. Belfast is large, prosperous, beautiful; but many
of her fine buildings and public monuments look as if they required to
have their faces washed, but Sligo buildings are fair and clean. We pass
a rather nice building, suppose it a school, but we are informed it is
the rent-office of the late Lord Palmerston. That astute nobleman showed
his usual good sense, if it was his choice, to own lands in the sunny
vales of Sligo instead of the hungry hills of Leitrim. If some have
greatness thrust upon them, some in the same way inherit lands. Out of
the town we went, and climbed up a grassy eminence; with some difficulty
got upon the "topmost tow'ring height" of an old earthwork - blamed on
the Danes of course; everything unknown is laid on them. The square
shape, the remains of the ditch that surrounds it look too much like
modern modes of fortification not to have a suspiciously British look.
Of course we are both delightfully ignorant on the subject.
The scenery from our elevated position is glorious. At our feet Sligo,
all her buildings, churches and convents white in the sunshine, around
her the fairest of green fields; the blue waters of Lough Gill sparkling
and glancing from among trees of every variety that in spring put on a
mantle of leaves. On every side but the gate of the west through which
we see a misty glance of the far Atlantic, Sligo has mountains standing
sentry around her. One, Knock-na-rea, is seen from a great distance, a
long mountain with a little mountain on her breast. The bells were
chiming musically, the sound floating up to where we stood. Below us, on
the other side of the old earthwork, a little apart from one another,
stood two great buildings, that are so necessary here, the poor-house
and the lunatic asylum. These magnificent and extensive buildings must
have cost an immense sum. The asylum has been enlarged recently, as the
freshly-cut stone and white mortar of one wing testified.
As I looked, a band struck up familiar airs. We saw them standing in a
field beside the asylum. I was told that the band was composed of
patients. This made the music more thrilling. When they struck up "Auld
Lang Syne," or "There Is no Luck About the House," there was a wail in
it to my ears, after home, happiness and reason. We got down from our
high position and came home by another way, passing through some of the
poorer streets of Sligo, which are kept scrupulously clean. Even here
women and girls were gathering sticks to cook the handful of meal. The
poor are very poor on the bare hills of Leitrim, or in this green valley
of Sligo.
XXIX.
ON LOUGH GILL - TWO MEN - STAMPEDE FROM SLIGO - THE ANCIENT AND THE
MODERN.
I was a little disappointed that I was getting no information on any
side of the question of the day, and my letters which were to be sent to
Sligo not coming to hand, I was advised to go down the beautiful Lough
Gill to Drumahaire to see the ruins of Brefni Castle, the place from
which the fair wife of the O'Ruarke, Prince of Brefni, fled with
McMurrough, which was the cause of the Saxon first gripping green Erin.
I thought I might as well, and set out to walk to the boat landing, a
good _billie_ out of Sligo, along the street, past small tenement
houses inhabited by laborers, who do not always obtain work, past the
big gloomy gaol, past the dead wall and the high bank on the top of
which goats are browsing, down to the landing beside the closely-locked
iron gate, and the little lodge sitting among the trees behind it,
belonging to the property of a Captain Wood Martin. Had the felicity,
while yet some way off, of seeing the shabby little boat cast off the
rope and puff herself and paddle herself slowly off down the lake.
Coming back a very pretty girl electrified me by informing me that I was
from America. She advised me to take a small boat and have a sail on
Lough Gill, for I would always regret it if I did not see its beauty
when I had the opportunity. In her excessive kindness she introduced me
to a river maiden, strong and comely, who would row me about with all
kindness for a small consideration. Prudently discovered what the
consideration was to be, and then gave in to the arrangement.
The water nymph had been away gathering sticks; she had to empty her
boat and I waited a little impatiently, a little ruefully. The boat was
big, clumsy and leaky, but the girl was eloquent and eager to persuade
me it was a fast and comfortable boat. She produced an ancient cushion
from somewhere; there was a clumsy getting on board, and she pushed off.
We went sailing down among the swans, the coots and the rushes, and
passed little tree-laden islands, hooped with stone wall for fear they
might be washed away.
