"The Irish people have hoped in vain
so long, have been deceived so often, that it is hard now to win their
confidence." The more I move through the country the more I believe
this. Mr. Dillon was the idol of the assembly, that was easy to be seen.
A few words with him, a touch of his hand, was an honor. He apologized
for Mr. Parnell's absence, who being elsewhere could not possibly be at
Omagh that day. I left before the meeting was over.
As far as I hear from the Common people themselves, they think the law
and the administrators of it sympathize with the landlords only, and let
that sympathy influence their decisions. They are, therefore, very
averse to go to law to obtain what they consider justice from a
landlord.
Another great complaint that I hear again and again is the expense
attendant on a transfer of property. As an instance, a little property
of the value of a hundred pounds changed hands when I was in Ramelton.
The deed of transfer was a parchment as big as a table-cloth, and cost
L10.
XVIII.
IRISH HUSBANDRY - A DESCRIPTION OF LORD LEITRIM - ABOVE AND BELOW THE
SALT - LANDLORD AND TENANT
The valley through which the railway passes from Derry to Omagh is one
long stretch of beauty, fertility and careful tillage. Every field,
whatever its shape, is cultivated up to the fence and into the corners
with a mathematical nicety. The regular fields, the green separating
ditches with their grassy covering, the hills cultivated to the very
tops, and the trees growing here and there all over made a landscape
that should delight the heart of a farmer. Whenever I come to careless
husbandry, I will be sure to record it. I have seen nothing of the kind
yet on mountain side or valley. I do not wish to fling a rose-colored
veil over everything because it is Irish.
The country is simply beautiful - no works can do justice to it. Still
there are some things one could find fault with freely. Between Omagh
and Strabane I took a third-class car. It was dirty, of course, horribly
dirty, but, as Mrs. McClarty said, "the dirt was well dried on," and it
was almost empty, so I entered. At a way station a great crowd, great
compared to the size of the compartment, came surging in. Every man had
a clay pipe, every man had a supply of the most villanous tobacco. I do
not wonder the Government taxes such tobacco, that it has to be sold by
license - some would not grieve if the duty were prohibitory.
Soon matches were struck, a tiny flash and a fusilade of reports like
toy pistols - all matches here go off like that. Every man began to smoke
for dear life, and smoked furiously with great smacks and puffs. And the
floor! when the mud of many days that had hardened and dried there was
moistened again by tobacco juice! Soon the compartment was filled with
smoke, there was literally nothing else to breathe. The car began to
heave about like a ship at sea. Fortunately we stopped at a station and
some on board got out, so that there was an opportunity of getting close
to the door and letting down the glass and a faint was prevented.
It was not pleasant to sit there craning one's neck round to breathe at
the window, for the seats ran lengthways of the carriage, and keeping
all crushed up to keep out of the way of a cross fire of tobacco juice
from the opposite benches. Made a vow there and then against third-class
carriages.
When the train stopped at Strabane was quite dizzy and sick and took
refuge in the first 'bus, which 'bus belonged to that superfine
establishment, the "Abercorn Arms." Was informed that the late Lord
Leitrim had stopped there a day or two before his death on his way to
Manorvaughan. "Stopped in this very room," said my informant. "He left
here on the Sabbath day in his own carriage for Manorvaughan; he had not
much reverence for the day. He was a very old man, walked lame with one
leg, had a fiery face and very white hair. I did think they might have
respected his gray hair. He had not long to live anyway, they might have
spared him." He rested one day at Manorvaughan, the next day he set out
for Milford and was killed.
"Why did they murder him?"
"They said he was a cruel landlord. Yes, a very bad landlord they said
he was. He was very impatient to get away from here that morning. He
little thought he was hurrying to his death."
From Strabane took the Finn Valley Railway, and went off on a voyage of
discovery to Rusky.
From Killiegordon took a first class ticket, as the distance was short,
to see what first-class passengers enjoyed. There is a great difference
indeed between first and third. Third-class is a penny a mile, first is
two pence half-penny; third is simply horrible with filth, first is as
luxurious as carpets, curtains, cushions, spring seats and easy chairs
can make it. There is not nearly so much difference in price, as
difference in style. As a first-class passenger I was assisted in and
out, and the door held open for me; as third or second-class one can get
in or out as they please for all the officials care. There is a very
wide difference in every respect between those above and those below the
line which separates "gentry from commonality." Of course I am using
local words. Gentry are expected to have a well-filled and an open hand.
If they have not both, what business have they to set up for gentry?
Popular opinion thinks of them as Carleton's hedge scholar expressed
himself, "You a gentleman?
