Upon what is called mountain land I
saw a fine little farm that had been reclaimed from the heather quite
recently. The farmer and his sons were binding after the cradle. He
holds this land at two shillings and sixpence an acre, and hopes under
the new Land Law that it shall not be raised on him. Mitchelstown is
quite a large place, and was as quiet as Indian summer. Had my worst
experience of hotel life in Fermoy, and gladly left it behind for
Cappoquin. The road lies alongside a lovely valley of the Blackwater,
and one has glimpses of the most enchanting scenery as they steam along.
Cappoquin is quite a nice town, and seems to have some trade by river as
well as by rail.
Walked out through the fair country to Mount Mellary Monastery, a
property reclaimed out of the stony heathery mountain by the monks of La
Trappe. They have succeeded in creating smiling fields among the waste
of the mountain wilderness. They hold the land on a lease of 999 years.
No woman is allowed into the precincts of the monastery proper, but
there is a hospice attached where travellers are received and
entertained without charge, but any gratuity is accepted. There is also
a school among the buildings.
The valley between Cappoquin and Mount Mellary is strikingly beautiful.
There is tradition of a great battle having been fought here once in the
dim past when a hundred fights was no uncommon allowance of battle to
one warrior. All is quiet and peaceful here now. The crops are being
gathered in in the sunshine, and everything is smiling and serene. I
received very much kindness in Cappoquin for which there will always be
sunshine over my memories of it.
LVI.
TIPPERARY - OVER THE KNOCK-ME-LE-DOWM MOUNTAINS - "NATE CLOGHEEN" - CAHIR -
WATERFORD - DUBLIN.
From Cappoquin I proposed to go to Cahir, across the pass, through the
Knock-me-le-Down Mountains. Took a car for this journey which was driven
by the only sullen and ill-tempered driver which I had seen on my
journey through Ireland. The road passed through Lismore, a little town
about four miles from Cappoquin, which is in a red hot state of
excitement just now; the bitterest feelings rage about the land
question. Evictions and boycottings are the order of the day. The
feeling of exasperation against the police is so determined that
supplies of any kind for their use could not be purchased for any money
in Lismore. The police feel just as exasperated against Miss Parnell,
who attends all evictions as a sympathizer with the tenants, and reports
all the proceedings. The police made an effigy of her and stoned it to
pieces to relieve their feelings.
