There are many islands in Lough Corrib besides the islands that the
priest and people of Clonbur built the causeway to. It is strange that
two lords take their titles from islands in this lake, Lord Inchiquin
and Lord Ardilaun. Some of the peasantry felt hurt because Lord Ardilaun
took his title from an island instead of from some part of the mainland.
I was pointed out in the distance from the lake, Moytura house, the home
of Sir William Wilde; it stands where was fought the battle of Moytura
in ancient times.
From the steamer we saw the ruined fortress, Annabreen Castle, said to
be six hundred years old. The masonry is very curious, being all done
within and without, quoins, doorways, window frames, of undressed stone,
and yet most admirably done.
I stood on the deck of the little steamer while the wind blew in the
teeth of the little boat and made her shiver and rock, and I endured
sharp neuralgiac pain, and lost my veil, which was blown off and went
sailing off into the lake because I would not miss seeing all Lough
Corrib had to show. I saw the ivy plaided walls of Caislean na
Cailliach, and on a little island the remains of an old uncemented stone
fort, so old that antiquity has forgotten it. The scenery was very
grand, the islands grassy and round, or waving with trees, the lake
covered with white horses riding with tossing manes to the shore; the
little boat with its broad breast holding its own against the swells,
the shores with green mountains checked off into fields, with higher
mountains blue in the distance rising behind them. All under
"The skies of dear Erin, our mother
Where sunshine and shadow are chasing each other."
The little steamer steamed up to the wharf and backed and stopped, in
most American fashion, at a lonely backwoods-looking wharf, but the
pillars for the snubbing rope were pillars of stone, and near were the
ruins of a tall square castle in good preservation. There are also the
walls of the bishop's residence here, with the bells of St. Brendan;
they told me this was the saint who discovered the happy land flowing
with milk and honey, the key to which lies hidden in Cuneen Miaul's tomb
and the ruins of an extensive abbey, a monastery and a nunnery and other
buildings.
Truly the banks and islands of Lough Corrib are made classic by ruins.
They say the carved mouldings and stone work on these ruins are
considered the most beautiful and most perfect in Ireland. We passed,
farther on, the ruins of Armaghdown, the castle fort of the bog.
