If No Such Place Can Be Found, The Ground Must Be Cut
Away.
The walls are made by piling stones against the earth, on
either side.
It is then roofed by larger stones laid across the
cavern, which therefore cannot be wide. Over the roof, turfs were
placed, and grass was suffered to grow; and the mouth was concealed
by bushes, or some other cover.
These caves were represented to us as the cabins of the first rude
inhabitants, of which, however, I am by no means persuaded. This
was so low, that no man could stand upright in it. By their
construction they are all so narrow, that two can never pass along
them together, and being subterraneous, they must be always damp.
They are not the work of an age much ruder than the present; for
they are formed with as much art as the construction of a common
hut requires. I imagine them to have been places only of
occasional use, in which the Islander, upon a sudden alarm, hid his
utensils, or his cloaths, and perhaps sometimes his wife and
children.
This cave we entered, but could not proceed the whole length, and
went away without knowing how far it was carried. For this
omission we shall be blamed, as we perhaps have blamed other
travellers; but the day was rainy, and the ground was damp. We had
with us neither spades nor pickaxes, and if love of ease surmounted
our desire of knowledge, the offence has not the invidiousness of
singularity.
Edifices, either standing or ruined, are the chief records of an
illiterate nation. In some part of this journey, at no great
distance from our way, stood a shattered fortress, of which the
learned minister, to whose communication we are much indebted, gave
us an account.
Those, said he, are the walls of a place of refuge, built in the
time of James the Sixth, by Hugh Macdonald, who was next heir to
the dignity and fortune of his chief. Hugh, being so near his
wish, was impatient of delay; and had art and influence sufficient
to engage several gentlemen in a plot against the Laird's life.
Something must be stipulated on both sides; for they would not dip
their hands in blood merely for Hugh's advancement. The compact
was formerly written, signed by the conspirators, and placed in the
hands of one Macleod.
It happened that Macleod had sold some cattle to a drover, who, not
having ready money, gave him a bond for payment. The debt was
discharged, and the bond re-demanded; which Macleod, who could not
read, intending to put into his hands, gave him the conspiracy.
The drover, when he had read the paper, delivered it privately to
Macdonald; who, being thus informed of his danger, called his
friends together, and provided for his safety. He made a public
feast, and inviting Hugh Macdonald and his confederates, placed
each of them at the table between two men of known fidelity.
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