RAASAY
At The First Intermission Of The Stormy Weather We Were Informed,
That The Boat, Which Was To Convey Us To Raasay, Attended Us On The
Coast.
We had from this time our intelligence facilitated, and our
conversation enlarged, by the company of Mr. Macqueen, minister
Of
a parish in Sky, whose knowledge and politeness give him a title
equally to kindness and respect, and who, from this time, never
forsook us till we were preparing to leave Sky, and the adjacent
places.
The boat was under the direction of Mr. Malcolm Macleod, a
gentleman of Raasay. The water was calm, and the rowers were
vigorous; so that our passage was quick and pleasant. When we came
near the island, we saw the laird's house, a neat modern fabrick,
and found Mr. Macleod, the proprietor of the Island, with many
gentlemen, expecting us on the beach. We had, as at all other
places, some difficulty in landing. The craggs were irregularly
broken, and a false step would have been very mischievous.
It seemed that the rocks might, with no great labour, have been
hewn almost into a regular flight of steps; and as there are no
other landing places, I considered this rugged ascent as the
consequence of a form of life inured to hardships, and therefore
not studious of nice accommodations. But I know not whether, for
many ages, it was not considered as a part of military policy, to
keep the country not easily accessible. The rocks are natural
fortifications, and an enemy climbing with difficulty, was easily
destroyed by those who stood high above him.
Our reception exceeded our expectations. We found nothing but
civility, elegance, and plenty. After the usual refreshments, and
the usual conversation, the evening came upon us. The carpet was
then rolled off the floor; the musician was called, and the whole
company was invited to dance, nor did ever fairies trip with
greater alacrity. The general air of festivity, which predominated
in this place, so far remote from all those regions which the mind
has been used to contemplate as the mansions of pleasure, struck
the imagination with a delightful surprise, analogous to that which
is felt at an unexpected emersion from darkness into light.
When it was time to sup, the dance ceased, and six and thirty
persons sat down to two tables in the same room. After supper the
ladies sung Erse songs, to which I listened as an English audience
to an Italian opera, delighted with the sound of words which I did
not understand.
I inquired the subjects of the songs, and was told of one, that it
was a love song, and of another, that it was a farewell composed by
one of the Islanders that was going, in this epidemical fury of
emigration, to seek his fortune in America. What sentiments would
arise, on such an occasion, in the heart of one who had not been
taught to lament by precedent, I should gladly have known; but the
lady, by whom I sat, thought herself not equal to the work of
translating.
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