At Fores We Found Good Accommodation, But Nothing Worthy Of
Particular Remark, And Next Morning Entered Upon The Road, On
Which
Macbeth heard the fatal prediction; but we travelled on not
interrupted by promises of kingdoms, and came to Nairn,
A royal
burgh, which, if once it flourished, is now in a state of miserable
decay; but I know not whether its chief annual magistrate has not
still the title of Lord Provost.
At Nairn we may fix the verge of the Highlands; for here I first
saw peat fires, and first heard the Erse language. We had no
motive to stay longer than to breakfast, and went forward to the
house of Mr. Macaulay, the minister who published an account of St.
Kilda, and by his direction visited Calder Castle, from which
Macbeth drew his second title. It has been formerly a place of
strength. The draw-bridge is still to be seen, but the moat is now
dry. The tower is very ancient: Its walls are of great thickness,
arched on the top with stone, and surrounded with battlements. The
rest of the house is later, though far from modern.
We were favoured by a gentleman, who lives in the castle, with a
letter to one of the officers at Fort George, which being the most
regular fortification in the island, well deserves the notice of a
traveller, who has never travelled before. We went thither next
day, found a very kind reception, were led round the works by a
gentleman, who explained the use of every part, and entertained by
Sir Eyre Coote, the governour, with such elegance of conversation
as left us no attention to the delicacies of his table.
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