We Desired Our
Guides To Shew Us The Fall, And Dismounting, Clambered Over Very
Rugged Crags, Till I Began To Wish That Our Curiosity Might Have
Been Gratified With Less Trouble And Danger.
We came at last to a
place where we could overlook the river, and saw a channel torn, as
It seems, through black piles of stone, by which the stream is
obstructed and broken, till it comes to a very steep descent, of
such dreadful depth, that we were naturally inclined to turn aside
our eyes.
But we visited the place at an unseasonable time, and found it
divested of its dignity and terror. Nature never gives every thing
at once. A long continuance of dry weather, which made the rest of
the way easy and delightful, deprived us of the pleasure expected
from the fall of Fiers. The river having now no water but what the
springs supply, showed us only a swift current, clear and shallow,
fretting over the asperities of the rocky bottom, and we were left
to exercise our thoughts, by endeavouring to conceive the effect of
a thousand streams poured from the mountains into one channel,
struggling for expansion in a narrow passage, exasperated by rocks
rising in their way, and at last discharging all their violence of
waters by a sudden fall through the horrid chasm.
The way now grew less easy, descending by an uneven declivity, but
without either dirt or danger. We did not arrive at Fort Augustus
till it was late. Mr. Boswell, who, between his father's merit and
his own, is sure of reception wherever he comes, sent a servant
before to beg admission and entertainment for that night. Mr.
Trapaud, the governor, treated us with that courtesy which is so
closely connected with the military character. He came out to meet
us beyond the gates, and apologized that, at so late an hour, the
rules of a garrison suffered him to give us entrance only at the
postern.
FORT AUGUSTUS
In the morning we viewed the fort, which is much less than that of
St. George, and is said to be commanded by the neighbouring hills.
It was not long ago taken by the Highlanders. But its situation
seems well chosen for pleasure, if not for strength; it stands at
the head of the lake, and, by a sloop of sixty tuns, is supplied
from Inverness with great convenience.
We were now to cross the Highlands towards the western coast, and
to content ourselves with such accommodations, as a way so little
frequented could afford. The journey was not formidable, for it
was but of two days, very unequally divided, because the only
house, where we could be entertained, was not further off than a
third of the way. We soon came to a high hill, which we mounted by
a military road, cut in traverses, so that as we went upon a higher
stage, we saw the baggage following us below in a contrary
direction.
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