For half the day the ground was rough, and our horses
were still small. Had they required much restraint, we might have
been reduced to difficulties; for I think we had amongst us but one
bridle. We fed the poor animals liberally, and they performed
their journey well. In the latter part of the day, we came to a
firm and smooth road, made by the soldiers, on which we travelled
with great security, busied with contemplating the scene about us.
The night came on while we had yet a great part of the way to go,
though not so dark, but that we could discern the cataracts which
poured down the hills, on one side, and fell into one general
channel that ran with great violence on the other. The wind was
loud, the rain was heavy, and the whistling of the blast, the fall
of the shower, the rush of the cataracts, and the roar of the
torrent, made a nobler chorus of the rough musick of nature than it
had ever been my chance to hear before. The streams, which ran
cross the way from the hills to the main current, were so frequent,
that after a while I began to count them; and, in ten miles,
reckoned fifty-five, probably missing some, and having let some
pass before they forced themselves upon my notice. At last we came
to Inverary, where we found an inn, not only commodious, but
magnificent.
The difficulties of peregrination were now at an end. Mr. Boswell
had the honour of being known to the Duke of Argyle, by whom we
were very kindly entertained at his splendid seat, and supplied
with conveniences for surveying his spacious park and rising
forests.
After two days stay at Inverary we proceeded Southward over
Glencroe, a black and dreary region, now made easily passable by a
military road, which rises from either end of the glen by an
acclivity not dangerously steep, but sufficiently laborious. In
the middle, at the top of the hill, is a seat with this
inscription, 'Rest, and be thankful.' Stones were placed to mark
the distances, which the inhabitants have taken away, resolved,
they said, 'to have no new miles.'
In this rainy season the hills streamed with waterfalls, which,
crossing the way, formed currents on the other side, that ran in
contrary directions as they fell to the north or south of the
summit. Being, by the favour of the Duke, well mounted, I went up
and down the hill with great convenience.
From Glencroe we passed through a pleasant country to the banks of
Loch Lomond, and were received at the house of Sir James Colquhoun,
who is owner of almost all the thirty islands of the Loch, which we
went in a boat next morning to survey. The heaviness of the rain
shortened our voyage, but we landed on one island planted with yew,
and stocked with deer, and on another containing perhaps not more
than half an acre, remarkable for the ruins of an old castle, on
which the osprey builds her annual nest.
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