A Little Tour In France, By Henry James



























































































 -   At the corners of the quadrangle
these columns take the form of curious human figures.
The whole thing is a - Page 216
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At The Corners Of The Quadrangle These Columns Take The Form Of Curious Human Figures. The Whole Thing Is A Gem Of Lightness And Preserva- Tion, And Is Often Cited For Its Beauty; But - If It Doesn't Sound Too Profane - I Prefer, Especially At Arles, The Ruins Of The Roman Theatre.

The antique element is too precious to be mingled with anything less rare.

This truth was very present to my mind during a ramble of a couple of hours that I took just before leaving the place; and the glowing beauty of the morning gave the last touch of the impression. I spent half an hour at the Museum; then I took an- other look at the Roman theatre; after which I walked a little out of the town to the Aliscamps, the old Elysian Fields, the meagre remnant of the old pagan place of sepulture, which was afterwards used by the Christians, but has been for ages deserted, and now consists only of a melancholy avenue of cypresses, lined with a succession of ancient sarcophagi, empty, mossy, and mutilated. An iron-foundry, or some hor- rible establishment which is conditioned upon tall chimneys and a noise of hammering and banging, has been established near at hand; but the cypresses shut it out well enough, and this small patch of Elysium is a very romantic corner.

The door of the Museum stands ajar, and a vigilant custodian, with the usual batch of photographs on his mind, peeps out at you disapprovingly while you linger opposite, before the charming portal of Saint Trophimus, which you may look at for nothing. When you succumb to the silent influence of his eye, and go over to visit his collection, you find yourself in a desecrated church, in which a variety of ancient objects, disinterred in Arlesian soil, have been ar- ranged without any pomp.

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