Familiar Spanish Travels, By W. D. Howells

























































































 -  We had to leave her when we left
the museum in the charge of two custodians who led her, involuntary - Page 73
Familiar Spanish Travels, By W. D. Howells - Page 73 of 376 - First - Home

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We Had To Leave Her When We Left The Museum In The Charge Of Two Custodians Who Led Her, Involuntary But Unresisting, To An Upper Chamber Where There Were Some Pictures Which She Could Care No More For Than For The Wood Carvings Below.

We ourselves cared so little for those pictures that we would not go to see them.

Pictures you can see anywhere, but not statuary of such singular interest, such transcendant powerfulness as those carvings of Berruguete and other masters less known, which held us fascinated in the lower rooms of the museum. They are the spoil of convents in the region about, suppressed by the government at different times, and collected here with little relevancy to their original appeal. Some are Scriptural subjects and some are figures of the dancers who take part in certain ceremonials of the Spanish churches (notably the cathedral at Seville), which have a quaint reality, an intense personal character. They are of a fascination which I can hope to convey by no phrase of mine; but far beyond this is the motionless force, the tremendous repose of the figures of the Roman soldiers taken in the part of sleeping at the Tomb. These sculptures are in wood, life-size, and painted in the colors of flesh and costume, with every detail and of a strong mass in which the detail is lost and must be found again by the wondering eye. Beyond all other Spanish sculptures they seemed to me expressive of the national temperament; I thought no other race could have produced them, and that in their return to the Greek ideal of color in statuary they were ingenuously frank and unsurpassably bold.

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