Familiar Spanish Travels, By W. D. Howells

























































































 -  We
thought our landlord might have so far repented as to put on the steam;
but he had sternly adhered - Page 56
Familiar Spanish Travels, By W. D. Howells - Page 56 of 376 - First - Home

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We Thought Our Landlord Might Have So Far Repented As To Put On The Steam; But He Had Sternly Adhered

To his principle that the radiators were enough of themselves; and after luncheon we had nothing for it but to

Go away from Burgos, and take with us such scraps of impression as we could. We decided that there was no street of gayer shops than those gloomy ones we had chanced into here and there; I do not remember now anything like a bookseller's or a milliner's or a draper's window. There was no sign of fashion among the ladies of Burgos, so far as we could distinguish them; there was not a glowering or perking hat, and I do not believe there was a hobble-skirt in all the austere old capital except such as some tourist wore; the black lace mantillas and the flowing garments of other periods flitted by through the chill alleys and into the dim doorways. The only cheerfulness in the local color was to be noted in the caparison of the donkeys, which we were to find more and more brilliant southward. Do I say the only cheerfulness? I ought to except also the involuntary hilarity of a certain poor man's suit which was so patched together of myriad scraps that it looked as if cut from the fabric of a crazy-quilt. I owe him this notice the rather because he almost alone did not beg of us in a city which swarmed with beggars in a forecast of that pest of beggary which infests Spain everywhere.

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