We Preferred, After The Barmecide Lunch At Our
Hotel, Taking The Tram-Car That Noisily And More Noisily Clambers Up And
Down, And Descending Into The Town By It.
The ascent is so steep that at
a certain point the electric current no longer suffices, and the car
bites into the line of cogs with its sort of powerful under-jaw and so
arrives.
Yet it is a kindly little vehicle, with a conductor so
affectionately careful in transporting the stranger that I felt after a
single day we should soon become brothers, or at least step-brothers.
Whenever we left or took his car, after the beginning or ending of the
cogway, he was alert to see that we made the right change to or from it,
and that we no more overpaid than underpaid him. Such homely natures
console the traveler for the thousand inhospitalities of travel, and
bind races and religions together in spite of patriotism and piety.
We were going first to the Cartuja, and in the city, which we found
curiously much more modern, after the Latin notion, than Seville, with
freshly built apartment-houses and business blocks, we took a cab, not
so modern as to be a taxicab, and drove through the quarter said to have
been assigned to the Moors after the fall of Granada. The dust lay thick
in the roadway where filthy children played, but in the sunny doorways
good mothers of families crouched taking away the popular reproach of
vermin by searching one another's heads.
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