Familiar Spanish Travels, By W. D. Howells

























































































 -  We were indeed weltering in a closed carriage,
which found its way not so badly through the alleys where two - Page 209
Familiar Spanish Travels, By W. D. Howells - Page 209 of 376 - First - Home

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We Were Indeed Weltering In A Closed Carriage, Which Found Its Way Not So Badly Through The Alleys Where Two Mules Could Not Pass Abreast.

The lime-wash of the walls did not emit the white heat in which tho other tourists have basked or baked; the houses looked wet and chill, and if they had those flowered and fountained _patios_ which people talk of they had taken them in out of the rain.

VI

At the mosque the _patio_ was not taken in only because it was so large, but I find by our records that it was much molested by a beggar who followed us when we dismounted at the gate of the Court of Oranges, and all but took our minds off the famous Moorish fountain in the midst. It was not a fountain of the plashing or gushing sort, but a noble great pool in a marble basin. The women who clustered about it were not laughing and chattering, or singing, or even dancing, in the right Andalusian fashion, but stood silent in statuesque poses from which they seemed in no haste to stir for filling their water jars and jugs. The Moorish tradition of irrigation confronting one in all the travels and histories as a supreme agricultural advantage which the Arabs took back to Africa with them, leaving Spain to thirst and fry, lingers here in the circles sunk round the orange trees and fed by little channels. The trees grew about as the fancy took them, and did not mind the incongruous palms towering as irregularly above them.

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