He Was One Of Those Drivers Who
Know Everybody; He Passed The Time Of Day With All The Men We Met, And
He Had A Joking Compliment For All The Women, Who Gladdened At Sight Of
Him From The Thresholds Where They Sat Sewing Or Knitting:
Such a driver
as brings a gay world to home-keeping souls and leaves them with the
feeling of having been in it.
I would have given much more than I gave
the beggars in Toledo to know just in what terms he and his universal
acquaintance bantered each other; but the terms might sometimes have
been rather rank. Something, at any rate, qualified the air, which I
fancied softer than that of Madrid, with a faint recurrent odor, as if
in testimony of the driver's derivation from those old rancid
Christians, as the Spaniards used to call them, whose lineage had never
been crossed with Moorish blood. If it was merely something the carriage
had acquired from the stable, still it was to be valued for its
distinction in a country of many smells; and I would not have been
without it.
When we crossed the Tagus by a bridge which a company of workmen
willingly paused from mending to let us by, and remained standing
absent-mindedly aside some time after we had passed, we found ourselves
in a scene which I do not believe was ever surpassed for spectacularity
in any theater. I hope this is not giving the notion of something
fictitious in it; I only mean that here Nature was in one of her most
dramatic moods.
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