Familiar Spanish Travels, By W. D. Howells

























































































 -  If the Toledans from high to low are
extravagant in anything it is dress, but dress for the outside, not - Page 159
Familiar Spanish Travels, By W. D. Howells - Page 159 of 376 - First - Home

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If The Toledans From High To Low Are Extravagant In Anything It Is Dress, But Dress For The Outside, Not The Inside, Which Does Not Show, As Our Guide Satirically Explained.

They scrimp themselves in food and they pay the penalty in lessened vitality; there is not so much fever

As one might think; but there is a great deal of consumption; and as we could not help seeing everywhere in the streets there were many blind, who seemed oftenest to have suffered from smallpox. The beggars were not so well dressed as the other classes, but I saw no such delirious patchwork as at Burgos. On the other hand, there were no idle people who were fashionably dressed; no men or women who looked great-world.

Perhaps if the afternoon had kept the sunny promise of the forenoon they might have been driving in the Paseo, a promenade which Toledo has like every Spanish city; but it rained and we did not stop at the Paseo which looked so pleasant.

The city, as so many have told and as I hope the reader will imagine, is a network of winding and crooked lanes, which the books say are Moorish, but which are medieval like those of every old city. They nowhere lend themselves to walking for pleasure, and the houses do not open their _patios_ to the passer with Andalusian expansiveness; they are in fact of a quite Oriental reserve. I remember no dwellings of the grade, quite, of hovels; but neither do there seem to be many palaces or palatial houses in my hurried impression.

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