The glasses are of enormous but not extravagant
proportions. These dropsical Iberians will drink water as if it were no
stronger than beer. In the winter-time, while the cheerful invitation
rings out to the same effect, - that the beverage is cold as the
snow, - the merchant prudently carries a little pot of hot water over a
spirit-lamp to take the chill off for shivery customers.
Madrid is one of those cities where strangers fear the climate less than
residents. Nothing is too bad for the Castilian to say of his native
air. Before you have been a day in the city some kind soul will warn you
against everything you have been in the habit of doing as leading to
sudden and severe death in this subtle air. You will hear in a dozen
different tones the favorite proverb, which may be translated, -
The air of Madrid is as sharp as a knife, -
It will spare a candle and blow out your life: -
and another where the truth, as in many Spanish proverbs, is sacrificed
to the rhyme, saying that the climate is tres meses invierno y nueve
infierno, - three months winter and nine months Tophet. At the first
coming of the winter frosts the genuine son of Madrid gets out his capa,
the national full round cloak, and never leaves it off till late in the
hot spring days.