Some Of These Are Still
Handsome Residences, But Most Have Fallen Into Neglect And Abandonment.
You May Find A Beggar Installed In The Ruined Palace Of A Moorish
Prince, A Cobbler At Work In The Pleasure-House Of A Castilian
Conqueror.
The graceful carvings are mutilated and destroyed, the
delicate arabesques are smothered and hidden under a triple coat of
whitewash.
The most beautiful Moorish house in the city, the so-called
Taller del Moro, where the grim governor of Huesca invited four hundred
influential gentlemen of the province to a political dinner, and cut off
all their heads as they entered (if we may believe the chronicle, which
we do not), is now empty and rapidly going to ruin. The exquisite
panelling of the walls, the endlessly varied stucco work that seems to
have been wrought by the deft fingers of ingenious fairies, is
shockingly broken and marred. Gigantic cacti look into the windows from
the outer court. A gay pomegranate-tree flings its scarlet blossoms in
on the ruined floor. Rude little birds have built their nests in the
beautiful fretted rafters, and flutter in and out as busy as brokers.
But of all the feasting and loving and plotting these lovely walls
beheld in that strange age that seems like fable now, - the vivid,
intelligent, scientific, tolerant age of the Moors, - even the memory has
perished utterly and forever.
We strolled away aimlessly from this beautiful desolation, and soon came
out upon the bright and airy Paseo del Transito.
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