It Was
Sir John Franklin's First Voyage To The Arctic Regions.
This trip
forms the subject of a delightful book by Captain Beechey.
On our way to the south point of Greenland we pass near Cape North,
a point of Iceland. Iceland, we know, is the centre of a volcanic
region, whereof Norway and Greenland are at opposite points of the
circumference. In connection with this district there is a
remarkable fact; that by the agency of subterranean forces, a large
portion of Norway and Sweden is being slowly upheaved. While
Greenland, on the west coast, as gradually sinks into the sea,
Norway rises at the rate of about four feet in a century. In
Greenland, the sinking is so well known that the natives never build
close to the water's edge, and the Moravian missionaries more than
once have had to move farther inland the poles on which their boats
are rested.
Our Phantom Ship stands fairly now along the western coast of
Greenland into Davis Straits. We observe that upon this western
coast there is, by a great deal, less ice than on the eastern. That
is a rule generally. Not only the configuration of the straits and
bays, but also the earth's rotation from west to east, causes the
currents here to set towards the west, and wash the western coasts,
while they act very little on the eastern. We steer across Davis
Strait, among "an infinite number of great countreys and islands of
yce;" there, near the entrance, we find Hudson Strait, which does
not now concern us. Islands probably separate this well-known
channel from Frobisher Strait to the north of it, yet unexplored.
Here let us recall to mind the fleet of fifteen sail, under Sir
Martin Frobisher, in 1578, tossing about and parting company among
the ice. Let us remember how the crew of the Anne Frances, in that
expedition, built a pinnace when their vessel struck upon a rock,
stock, although they wanted main timber and nails. How they made a
mimic forge, and "for the easier making of nails, were forced to
break their tongs, gridiron, and fire-shovel, in pieces." How
Master Captain Best, in this frail bark, with its imperfect timbers
held together by the metamorphosed gridiron and fire-shovel,
continued in his duty, and did depart up the straights as before was
pretended." How a terrific storm arose, and the fleet parted and
the intrepid captain was towed "in his small pinnesse, at the stern
of the Michael, thorow the raging seas; for the bark was not able to
receive, or relieve half his company." The "tongs, gridyron, and
fire-shovell," performed their work only for as many minutes as were
absolutely necessary, for the pinnesse came no sooner aboard the
ship, and the men entred, but she presently shivered and fell in
pieces, and sunke at the ship's stern with all the poor men's
furniture."
Now, too, as we sail up the strait, explored a few years after these
events by Master John Davis, how proudly we remember him as a right
worthy forerunner of those countrymen of his and ours who since have
sailed over his track. Nor ought we to pass on without calling to
mind the melancholy fate, in 1606, of Master John Knight, driven, in
the Hopewell, among huge masses of ice with a tremendous surf, his
rudder knocked away, his ship half full of water, at the entrance to
these straits. Hoping to find a harbour, he set forth to explore a
large island, and landed, leaving two men to watch the boat, while
he, with three men and the mate, set forth and disappeared over a
hill. For thirteen hours the watchers kept their post; one had his
trumpet with him, for he was a trumpeter, the other had a gun. They
trumpeted often and loudly; they fired, but no answer came. They
watched ashore all night for the return of their captain and his
party, "but they came not at all."
The season is advanced. As we sail on, the sea steams like a line-
kiln, "frost-smoke" covers it. The water, cooled less rapidly, is
warmer now than the surrounding air, and yields this vapour in
consequence. By the time our vessel has reached Baffin's Bay, still
coasting along Greenland, in addition to old floes and bergs, the
water is beset with "pancake ice." That is the young ice when it
first begins to cake upon the surface. Innocent enough it seems,
but it is sadly clogging to the ships. It sticks about their sides
like treacle on a fly's wing; collecting unequally, it destroys all
equilibrium, and impedes the efforts of the steersman. Rocks split
on the Greenland coast with loud explosions, and more icebergs fall.
Icebergs we soon shall take our leave of; they are only found where
there is a coast on which glaciers can form; they are good for
nothing but to yield fresh water to the vessels; it will be all
field, pack, and saltwater ice presently.
Now we are in Baffin's Bay, explored in the voyages of Bylot and
Baffin, 1615-16. When, in 1817, a great movement in the Greenland
ice caused many to believe that the northern passages would be found
comparatively clear; and when, in consequence of this impression,
Sir John Barrow succeeded in setting afoot that course of modern
Arctic exploration which has been continued to the present day, Sir
John Ross was the first man sent to find the North-West Passage.
Buchan and Parry were commissioned at the same the to attempt the
North Sea route. Sir John Ross did little more on that occasion
than effect a survey of Baffin's Bay, and prove the accuracy of the
ancient pilot. In the extreme north of the bay there is an inlet or
a channel, called by Baffin Smith's Sound; this Sir John saw, but
did not enter. It never yet has been explored. It may be an inlet
only; but it is also very possible that by this channel ships might
get into the Polar Sea and sail by the north shore of Greenland to
Spitzbergen.
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