Europe - The Principal Navigations, Voyages, Traffiques And Discoveries Of The English Nation - Volume 4 - Collected By Richard Hakluyt
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[Sidenote: The Noble Woman's Attire.] The Noble Woman (Called Chyna
Boiarshena) Weareth On Her Head, First A Cauil Of Some Soft Silke (Which Is
Commonly Redde) And Ouer It A Fruntlet Called Obrosa, Of White Colour.
Ouer
that her cappe (made after the coife fashion of cloth of gold) called
Shapka Zempska, edged with some
Rich furre, and set with pearle and stone.
Though they haue of late begunne to disdaine embrodering with pearle aboue
their cappes, because the Diacks, and some Marchants wiues haue taken vp
the fashion. In their ears they weare earerings (which they call Sargee) of
two inches or more compasse, the matter of gold set with Rubies or
Saphires, or some like precious stone. In Sommer they goe often with
kerchiefffes of fine white lawne, or cambricke, fastned vnder the chinne,
with two long tassels pendent. The kerchiefe spotted and set thicke with
rich pearle. When they ride or goe abroad in raynie weather, they weare
white hattes with coloured bandes called Stapa Zemskoy. About their neckes
they weare collers of three or foure fingers broad, set with rich pearle
and precious stone. Their vpper garment is a loose gowne called Oposhen
commonly of scarlet, with wide loose sleeues, hanging downe to the ground
buttened before with great golde buttons or at least siluer and guilt nigh
as bigge as a walnut. Which hath hanging ouer it fastned vnder the cappe, a
large broad cape of some rich furre, that hangeth downe almost to the
middes of their backes. Next vnder the Oposken [Trascriber's note: sic] or
vpper garment, they weare another called a Leitnich that is made close
before with great wide sleeues, the cuffe or halfe sleeue vp to the
elbowes, commonly of cloth of golde: and vnder that a Ferris Zemskoy, which
hangeth loose buttoned throughout to the very foote. On the hande wrests
they weare very faire braselets, about two fingers broad of pearle and
precious stone. They goe all in buskins of white, yellow, blew, or some
other coloured leather, embrodered with pearle. This is the attire of the
Noblewoman of Russia, when she maketh the best shewe of herselfe. The
Gentlewomans apparell may differ in the stuffe, but is all one for the
making or fashion.
[Sidenote: The Mousicks or common man attire.] As for the poore Mousick and
his wife they goe poorely cladde. The man with his Honoratkey, or loose
gowne to the small of the legge, tyed together with a lace before, of
course white or blew cloth, with some Shube or long wastcoate of furre, or
of sheepeskinne vnder it, and his furred cappe, and buskins. The poorer
sort of them haue their Honoratkey, or vpper garment, made of Kowes haire.
This is their winter habite. In the sommer time, commonly they weare
nothing but their shirts on their backes, and buskins on their legges. The
woman goeth in a red or blewe gowne, when she maketh the best shewe, and
with some warme Shube of furre vnder it in the winter time.
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