Europe - The Principal Navigations, Voyages, Traffiques And Discoveries Of The English Nation - Volume 4 - Collected By Richard Hakluyt
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Miles Or Thereabouts.
The Whole Countrey In A Maner Is Either Lakes, Or Mountaines, Which
Towardes The Sea Side Are Called Tondro, Because They Are All Of Harde And
Craggy Rocke, But The Inland Partes Are Well Furnished With Woods That
Growe On The Hilles Sides, The Lakes Lying Betweene.
Their diet is very
bare and simple.
Bread they haue none, but feede onely vpon fish and foule.
They are subiect to the Emperor of Russia, and the two kings of Sweden and
Denmarke: which all exact tribute and custome of them (as was saide before)
but the Emperor of Russia beareth the greatest hand ouer them, and exacteth
of them farre more then the rest. The opinion is that they were first
termed Lappes of their briefe and short speech. The Russe diuideth the
whole nation of the Lappes into two series. The one they call Nowremanskoy
Lapary, that is, the Norwegian Lappes because they be of the Danish
religion. For the Danes and Noruegians they account for one people. The
other that haue no religion at all but liue as bruite and heathenish
people, without God in the worlde, they cal Dikoy Lapary, or the wilde
Lappes.
The whole nation is vtterly vnlearned, hauing not so much as the vse of any
Alphabet, or letter among them. For practise of witchcraft and sorcerie
they passe all nations in the worlde. Though for enchanting of ships that
saile along their coast, (as I haue heard it reported) and their giuing of
winds good to their friends, and contrary to other, whom they meane to hurt
by tying of certaine knots vpon a rope (somewhat like to the tale of Aeolus
his windbag) is a very fable, deuised (as may seeme) by themselues, to
terrifie sailers for comming neere their coast. Their weapons are the long
bow, and handgunne, wherein they excell, as well for quicknesse to charge
and discharge, as for neerenesse at the marke by reason of their continuall
practise (whereto they are forced) of shooting at wild fowle. Their maner
is in Sommer time to come downe in great companies to the sea side, to
Wardhuyse, Cola, Kegor, and the bay of Vedagoba, and there to fish for
Codde, Salmon, and But-fish, which they sel to the Russes, Danes, and
Noruegians, and nowe of late to the English men that trade thither with
cloth, which they exchange with the Laps and Corelians for their fish,
oyle, and furres, whereof also they haue some store. [Sidenote: The mart at
Cola.] They hold their mart at Cola on S. Peter's day: what time the
captaine of Wardhuyse (that is residant there for the king of Denmark) must
be present, or at least send his deputie to set prices vpon their
stockfish, train oile, furres, and other commodities: as also the Russe
Emperors customer, or tribute taker, to receiue his custome, which is euer
paide before any thing can bee bought or solde. When their fishing is done,
their manner is to drawe their carbasses Or boates on shore, and there to
leaue them with the keele turned vpwardes, till the next spring tide.
[Sidenote: Sleds drawen with Deere.] Their trauaile to and fro is vpon
sleddes drawen by the Olen Deere: which they vse to turne a grasing all the
Sommer time in an Island called Kildyn, (of a verie good soyle compared
with other partes of that Countrey) and towards the Winter time, when the
snowe beginneth to fall they fetch them home againe for the vse of their
sledde.
The description of the regions, people, and riuers lying North and East
from Moscouia: as the way from Moscouia to the riuer Petzora, and the
Prouince Iugaria or Iuhra, and from thence to the riuer Obi. Likewise the
description of other countreys and regions, euen vnto the Empire of the
great Can of Cathay, taken out of Sigismundus ab Herberstein.
[Sidenote: The dominion of the Duke of Moscouia.] The dominion of the
Prince of Moscouia, reacheth farre toward the East and North, vnto the
places which we will now describe. As concerning which thing, I translated
a book that was presented vnto me in the Moscouites tongue, and haue here
made a briefe rehearsall of the same. I will first therefore describe the
iourney from Moscouia to Petzora, and so to Iugaria and Obi. From Moscouia
to the citie of Vologda, are numbered fiue hundred versts, one verst,
conteyning almost the space of an Italian myle. From Vologda to Vsting
toward the right hand, descending with the course of the riuer of Vologda
and Suchana with whom it ioyneth, are counted fiue hundred verstes, where
within two versts of the towne called Strelze, and hard by the citie of
Vsting, Suchana ioyneth vnto Iug which runneth from the South: from whose
mouth vnto the springs of the same, are numbred fiue hundred versts.
[Sidenote: Iug. So called of his swift and pleasant streame.] But Suchana
and Iug, after they ioyne together, lose their first names, and make but
one riuer named Dwina, by the which the passage to the citie of Colmogro
conteineth fiue hundred versts, from whence, in the space of sixe dayes
iourney, Dwina entreth into the North Ocean at sixe mouthes. And the
greatest part of this iourney consisteth by Nauigation. For by lande from
Vologda vnto Colmogro, passing ouer the riuer Vuaga, are a thousand
verstes. Not farre from Colmogro, the riuer Pinega running from the East on
the right hand for the space of seuen hundred versts, falleth into Dwina.
From Dwina by the riuer Pienega, by the space of two hundred versts, they
come to a place called Nicholai, from whence within halfe a verst ships
haue passage into the riuer Kuluio, which hath his originall from a lake of
the same name towarde the North, from whose springs is eight daies viage to
the mouth of the same, where it entreth into the Ocean.
[Sidenote: The regions by the North sea.] Sayling by the coasts of the
right hand of the sea, they passe by the regions of Stanuwische,
Calunczcho, and Apnu:
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